After the evening of entertainment, both Jazzman (Vic's aptly named catamaran) and Live Now sailed south to Little Farmer's Cay. They were off the next morning to get someone to the airport. We stayed for a couple of days. Not much was going on on Little Farmer's Cay, but we did have a nice lunch at the yacht club. We had called on the VHF radio for reservations for lunch, and by the time we got there, it was ready. We ate on a covered veranda and enjoyed the view, once again the only customers. The manager of the club, Roosevelt Nixon, a distinguished gentleman (that's what I call guys about my age) talked to us about the history of the island. Some 'Loyalists' settled here during the American Revolutionary War. Roosevelt, named after the U.S. president and no relation to, or namesake of, Richard Milhouse Nixon, told us that his father used to come to Little Farmers for fishing and recreation. The 'recreation', he implied, took the form of courting one of the number of pretty women who resided on the island at the time. His father eventually married a local girl after a couple of begats, begat Roosevelt.
The original settlers apparently had bought the Cay with the idea of becoming cotton and sisel farmers, but nothing grows well there~~too many rocks and too much sand. However, you can still see wild versions of both crops in vacant fields around the island. With a wide screen TV in the background, we discussed the coming U.S. election and other current events. We have always found that people from other countries know quite alot more about us and what we're up to than we know about them, and they seem quite well informed. In the Bahamas that may be due to the fact that CNN and Fox News seem to dominate the airways. The TV satellite offers primarily U.S. programming.
We needed to wait for a 'weather window', to make our run to George Town, about 40 miles away. Even though the weather was delightful, we needed to have a west or south of east wind to make an easy passage on the Exuma Sound. To date our Exuma travels kept us to the Exuma Banks side of the island chain. This is protected, shallow water with numerous safe anchorages. Just south of Little Farmers Cay, the Banks become impassably shallow for even moderate draft vessels. Reaching George Town requires exiting the Banks at one of the 'Cuts' (such as Big Rock Cut at Little Farmers) or channels to the Sound. An easterly wind blowing strong over several days can create what's known as a "Rage"; breaking water across the entire Cut. Some Rages set up walls of water 4' high. On top of that, there are no safe anchorages on the Sound side. Although I was game to try it :) John wasn't. So we had a couple of days to just poke around. John suggested we get in the dinghy and go exploring. We ride along the shore for awhile , and I'm wondering where he is going, but don't say anything because I'm enjoying the ride. I'm blisfully unaware of the fact that he actually has a place in mind that he wants to check out. I'm kind of suspicious when he turns and begins to head out into what looks like just plain ocean. But, trusting soul that I am, I just keep my mouth shut. Before long, I spied something out in the water which kept getting bigger and bigger. It seems like it took ages to get there, but there it was, an island in the making, about 20 feet wide, a mile and a half long, and about 3 feet high at low tide.
We pulled our dinghy up on the sand and were greeted by roseate terns, gulls and other sea birds, a rather large southern sting ray (five feet in diameter, lurking in 1' of water near the shore), and a two foot long baracuda (another lurker). And shells! No one goes there, so there were shells galore just ripe for the picking. It made me feel like a grade school kid on a field trip, where the teacher tells us that in another hundred years or so this will be the newest island in the Bahamas chain, and here we are to testify to the fact that we saw it first! We spent a couple of hours walking both shorelines (sometimes with one foot on each shore), picking up conch shells, sand dollars and other curiosities before heading back. All in all a great field trip. The only down side is that John made me to do a field trip report and do a shell presentation.
Typical Exumas Grocery Store
The green building is the grocery store on Little Farmer's Cay. We found no one there and knocked on the doors of the houses on either side to no avail. Maybe tomorrow.
Bull Shark at Cambridge Cay
Eleni, this one's for you!!!
We first thought this our old friendly nurse shark but on a more careful review discovered a shark of a totally different dispostion. She visited us several times a day.
Exploration and Entertainment in the Exumas
During the past few days, we have had the pleasure of exploring some really great areas in the Exumas. On our way south to George Town, which is the southernmost point of most people's foray into the Bahamas, we stopped at Cambridge Cay, at the southern end of the Exumas Cay Land and Sea Park. Cambridge Cay is known for its great places to snorkel. We snorkeled "The Aquarium", the "Coral Gardens" and a couple of caves carved out of the limestone. Because the Park doesn't allow fishing, when you enter the water, you're immediately surrounded by hundreds of brilliantly colored tropical fish. Whether just curious, or more likely, looking for a handout, it makes for a wonderfully memorable experience. This lack of fear of humans can be seen also in the presence of a 5' bull shark that frequented our mooring at Cambridge Cay. Bull sharks, unlike the nurse sharks of Compass Cay, have a nasty reputation for aggression, and discouraged any carefree early morning swims.
The coral reefs here were truly amazing: stag horn coral 4 - 5 feet tall, table corals that could sit 6 people comfortably and a wide range of fan, brain and others in colors that seem unreal.
On the next island south that we visited, Staniel Cay, is the cave made famous by the James Bond movie "Thunderball". We actually had Mothers Day dinner at Club Thunderball. John explored the cave the next day and found plenty of coral and fish, but no "Bond" girls (although he did seem to be gone for a suspiciously long time)! You have to go underwater beneath rocks and come out into the cave. Stalactites and stalagmites cover the ceiling and floors. The natural light coming from holes in the ceiling give them a cathedral-like feeling.
The sparsely populated Exumas offer few opportunities for re-supply. Our experience at Staniel Cay reflects the challenges to those of us used to the "convenience " culture. We needed gas for the dingy and propane for the stove. The cruising guide states that gas and propane are both available at Staniel Cay. In fact, Staniel Cay is the only place in the Exumas outside of George Town where both can be bought. With our last ounces of gas, we dinghied to the fuel dock at Staniel Cay Marina (the only retail fuel source on the island). Finding no one on the dock, John went to the Marina restaurant to get some help only to find that:
"We don't have gas."
"You don't have gas now or you never have gas?"
"Oh, we usually have gas but not right now."
"When will you have it?"
"Not till the fuel boat comes in. It should be here any day."
"Is there anyplace else I can get some?"
"Well you could dinghy over to Sampson Cay (5 miles away)."
Five miles is about the cruising limit of our dingy. Even if I could get there, I would only be able to buy enough fuel to get me back. So, the next day, we moved Live Now to Sampson Cay, bought gas, had a wonderful lunch on the beach at this beautiful resort and returned to Staniel. We still needed propane. The next morning, we dinghied into Staniel Cay's general store (the only source for propane). The clerk told us to leave the tank and pick it up the next day. The next day we returned to find that they had run out of propane.
I asked, "When will you have it?"
"Not till the fuel boat comes in."
"When's that?"
"Not sure."
"Where else can we get it?"
"Maybe, George Town."'
So, we picked up our tank and headed south the next morning. That was 2 weeks ago. We're in George Town now and the fuel boat still hasn't arrived. This morning, Tuesday, I stopped by the propane supply store. Propane was supposed to have been delivered 6 days ago. We're still waiting. I asked the young man there:
"When do you expect to get propane?"
"When the fuel boat gets in, probably Thursday, maybe Friday."
(Sigh....)
Imagine being totally dependent upon the fuel boat, the supply boat, the mail boat. The restaurants and grocery stores order from Nassau and have it delivered a week later by boat, so it behooves you to know when the supply boat will get here. Otherwise, the store shelves may be empty. Some islands will have two or three 'grocery stores', which range from the size of a shed to maybe a one car garage) but in one you may find a couple of boxes of cereal, some potatoes, onions, some cleaning supplies, lots of rice, and some soup (all of one kind). In another store, you might find juice and paper towels. In the third, if you're lucky, you might find milk. On the larger islands, you have regular grocery stores, which are remind me of a small town IGA in the US, so it's wise to stock up for your trip to the 'out islands'.
Next, we went to Blackpoint Settlement, which was a very non-touristy town. Everyone seemed to watch us as we walked down the street, so we must have been something of a novelty. Lorraine's Cafe had been recommended to us by another boater, so we went there for dinner. We had made reservations, but still we were the only ones there. It is now past tourist season. People have already begun their trips back home. It is beginning to get really hot here. Last week, we had two days of 111 degrees. There's almost always a breeze, however, making it feel relatively pleasant. We waited a few minutes for Lorraine to arrive. She asked us what we wanted to eat. We asked, "What do you have?" She replied, "I can make you chicken or fish." Pat had the chicken. I had the fish (grouper, of course). Everything was delicious.
Anyway, Lorraine, the owner, server, cook, etc., told us there was going to be entertainment that evening, and about 8:00 some other Americans whom we had met that morning at Staniel Cay showed up, and the one guy is a jazz musician. He actually grew up with James Taylor and was part of Taylor's first band, The Fabulous Corsairs. So, we spent a very enjoyable evening with Vic doing music, (he was really good!) while we visited with his sister, Ann, and their friends, Frank and Debbie. The townspeople began to flock in, and Vic played for a couple of hours going through his repertoire of easy jazz classics to the enthusiastic applause of the small audience. When it came time for requests, there was only one. Lorraine and her mother requested the old spiritual, "Amazing Grace", and got up and sang 6 verses of this wonderful song to Vic's accompaniment. I don't know who enjoyed it more~~us or the townspeople. Based on our limited experience, religion plays a big role in Bahamian life. Even the smallest Cay has several churches. Scripture and religious art don the walls of most public buildings, including the post office and other government offices.
The coral reefs here were truly amazing: stag horn coral 4 - 5 feet tall, table corals that could sit 6 people comfortably and a wide range of fan, brain and others in colors that seem unreal.
On the next island south that we visited, Staniel Cay, is the cave made famous by the James Bond movie "Thunderball". We actually had Mothers Day dinner at Club Thunderball. John explored the cave the next day and found plenty of coral and fish, but no "Bond" girls (although he did seem to be gone for a suspiciously long time)! You have to go underwater beneath rocks and come out into the cave. Stalactites and stalagmites cover the ceiling and floors. The natural light coming from holes in the ceiling give them a cathedral-like feeling.
The sparsely populated Exumas offer few opportunities for re-supply. Our experience at Staniel Cay reflects the challenges to those of us used to the "convenience " culture. We needed gas for the dingy and propane for the stove. The cruising guide states that gas and propane are both available at Staniel Cay. In fact, Staniel Cay is the only place in the Exumas outside of George Town where both can be bought. With our last ounces of gas, we dinghied to the fuel dock at Staniel Cay Marina (the only retail fuel source on the island). Finding no one on the dock, John went to the Marina restaurant to get some help only to find that:
"We don't have gas."
"You don't have gas now or you never have gas?"
"Oh, we usually have gas but not right now."
"When will you have it?"
"Not till the fuel boat comes in. It should be here any day."
"Is there anyplace else I can get some?"
"Well you could dinghy over to Sampson Cay (5 miles away)."
Five miles is about the cruising limit of our dingy. Even if I could get there, I would only be able to buy enough fuel to get me back. So, the next day, we moved Live Now to Sampson Cay, bought gas, had a wonderful lunch on the beach at this beautiful resort and returned to Staniel. We still needed propane. The next morning, we dinghied into Staniel Cay's general store (the only source for propane). The clerk told us to leave the tank and pick it up the next day. The next day we returned to find that they had run out of propane.
I asked, "When will you have it?"
"Not till the fuel boat comes in."
"When's that?"
"Not sure."
"Where else can we get it?"
"Maybe, George Town."'
So, we picked up our tank and headed south the next morning. That was 2 weeks ago. We're in George Town now and the fuel boat still hasn't arrived. This morning, Tuesday, I stopped by the propane supply store. Propane was supposed to have been delivered 6 days ago. We're still waiting. I asked the young man there:
"When do you expect to get propane?"
"When the fuel boat gets in, probably Thursday, maybe Friday."
(Sigh....)
Imagine being totally dependent upon the fuel boat, the supply boat, the mail boat. The restaurants and grocery stores order from Nassau and have it delivered a week later by boat, so it behooves you to know when the supply boat will get here. Otherwise, the store shelves may be empty. Some islands will have two or three 'grocery stores', which range from the size of a shed to maybe a one car garage) but in one you may find a couple of boxes of cereal, some potatoes, onions, some cleaning supplies, lots of rice, and some soup (all of one kind). In another store, you might find juice and paper towels. In the third, if you're lucky, you might find milk. On the larger islands, you have regular grocery stores, which are remind me of a small town IGA in the US, so it's wise to stock up for your trip to the 'out islands'.
Next, we went to Blackpoint Settlement, which was a very non-touristy town. Everyone seemed to watch us as we walked down the street, so we must have been something of a novelty. Lorraine's Cafe had been recommended to us by another boater, so we went there for dinner. We had made reservations, but still we were the only ones there. It is now past tourist season. People have already begun their trips back home. It is beginning to get really hot here. Last week, we had two days of 111 degrees. There's almost always a breeze, however, making it feel relatively pleasant. We waited a few minutes for Lorraine to arrive. She asked us what we wanted to eat. We asked, "What do you have?" She replied, "I can make you chicken or fish." Pat had the chicken. I had the fish (grouper, of course). Everything was delicious.
Anyway, Lorraine, the owner, server, cook, etc., told us there was going to be entertainment that evening, and about 8:00 some other Americans whom we had met that morning at Staniel Cay showed up, and the one guy is a jazz musician. He actually grew up with James Taylor and was part of Taylor's first band, The Fabulous Corsairs. So, we spent a very enjoyable evening with Vic doing music, (he was really good!) while we visited with his sister, Ann, and their friends, Frank and Debbie. The townspeople began to flock in, and Vic played for a couple of hours going through his repertoire of easy jazz classics to the enthusiastic applause of the small audience. When it came time for requests, there was only one. Lorraine and her mother requested the old spiritual, "Amazing Grace", and got up and sang 6 verses of this wonderful song to Vic's accompaniment. I don't know who enjoyed it more~~us or the townspeople. Based on our limited experience, religion plays a big role in Bahamian life. Even the smallest Cay has several churches. Scripture and religious art don the walls of most public buildings, including the post office and other government offices.
Mangrove 101
One of the most interesting plants in the Bahama chain is the mangrove, which we knew very little about. There are three different mangrove plants which grow in succession, holding the soil in place and creating new land.
The red mangrove grows closest to the water's edge. The red roots bow out and anchor themselves firmly in the unstable ground (which, they say, are a good thing to tie off to in a hurricane) and they commence to gathering silt and building up land. This sedimentation, then, makes it possible for the next group, the black mangroves, to come in and dwell in the mud. They, then, put out a root system which sticks straight up, catching still more silt, transforming the mud into hard ground. This makes way for the grey mangrove, or buttonwood tree, which grows to 15 to 25 feet and is highly prized as driftwood.
The plants really don't like the salt, and certain leaves will be designated (by whom I don't know) as sacrificial leaves. They will absorb the salt for the entire plant, turn yellow, and fall off, allowing the plant to survive the harsh conditions. And, now you know as much or more than we do about mangroves.
While anchored at Shroud Cay, we took the dhingy and toured the mangrove swamp for a couple of hours. A couple we met at dinner at Norman's Cay the other night said to pay particular attention to where you are going, because it was easy for them to get lost in the swamp. We wound our way through the swamp, along with a couple of young sharks, and came upon two women from Canada who were spending their vacation kayaking in the area. They had brought two kayaks and their gear on the plane from Canada to Nassau and chartered a small plane to bring them and their stuff out here (using Carlos' old airstrip). Had to admire them for going to all that trouble.
The red mangrove grows closest to the water's edge. The red roots bow out and anchor themselves firmly in the unstable ground (which, they say, are a good thing to tie off to in a hurricane) and they commence to gathering silt and building up land. This sedimentation, then, makes it possible for the next group, the black mangroves, to come in and dwell in the mud. They, then, put out a root system which sticks straight up, catching still more silt, transforming the mud into hard ground. This makes way for the grey mangrove, or buttonwood tree, which grows to 15 to 25 feet and is highly prized as driftwood.
The plants really don't like the salt, and certain leaves will be designated (by whom I don't know) as sacrificial leaves. They will absorb the salt for the entire plant, turn yellow, and fall off, allowing the plant to survive the harsh conditions. And, now you know as much or more than we do about mangroves.
While anchored at Shroud Cay, we took the dhingy and toured the mangrove swamp for a couple of hours. A couple we met at dinner at Norman's Cay the other night said to pay particular attention to where you are going, because it was easy for them to get lost in the swamp. We wound our way through the swamp, along with a couple of young sharks, and came upon two women from Canada who were spending their vacation kayaking in the area. They had brought two kayaks and their gear on the plane from Canada to Nassau and chartered a small plane to bring them and their stuff out here (using Carlos' old airstrip). Had to admire them for going to all that trouble.
Drug Deal Gone Bad
The airplane in the photo as well as a few bullet holes in the buildings on the south side of the island are all that is left of the empire of Carlos Lehder, a Columbian of German ancestry, who bought the island of Norman's Cay in the 1970's to use in the Medellin Cartel's drug smuggling operations. He first appeared in the area in 1977, buying up as much property as he could, often intimidating people into selling. He then sank over $5 million into Norman's Cay, enlarging the airstrip and lengthing the dock.
Subsequently, boaters like us who just like to anchor near an island for the evening and enjoy the scenery, were chased off by gun-toting guards. This, understandably, was met by some suspicion by boaters (a generally bright group), and the Bahamian police as well as the USDEA were notified. The DEA began surveillance of the island and Lehder's comings and goings, and in September of 1979, a raid by Bahamian police netted 33 Germans, Americans and Colombians. Lehder was, at the time, on a nearby island, and was captured attempting to flee in a small boat. He claimed he thought the police and DEA were coming to kidnap him. However, a corrupt Bahamian official had warned Lehder of the raid and Norman's Cay was spotless! Even though Lehder was arrested, he was released with no charges after turning over a suitcase containing $250,000 to Bahamian officials. He and his men were back in business within 48 hours!
Finally, in January of 1981, a 39 count indictment was handed down in US court naming Lehder and 13 others. By this time, Lehder was hiding out mostly in Columbia. The new plane designed to smuggle drugs crashed into the shallow water about 100 yards off the runway, and things generally began to look bleak for old Carlos. He was finally captured by Columbian authorities in February of 1987, just outside Medellin, and extradited to the United States. In May of 1988, Carlos was convicted and sentenced to life without parole plus 135 years.
We have been to Norman's Cay twice, now, and both times have eaten at the great little restaurant there. The restaurant is very simple, but truly elegant. The grouper dinner that John ate was caught by the restaurant manager that morning. It is the kind of place where the customers come to feel so much at home that when the manager or the server (who are also the cooks) are back in the kitchen, the 'regulars' get up and start serving the customers. Reservations are 'required', but if you don't have one, that's okay, too. Also, they don't start serving until 7:00, but if you want to eat at 6:00, that, again, is okay. (Very Bahamin). This time we met a guy who is about our age who has been cruising the Caribbean since the 1970's. He was in college in upstate New York, went to the Florida Keys for spring break, met some cruisers, and decided this was the life for him. He was here to reclaim his 39 foot boat, which had silted in (after having left it here 7 years ago) just behind the airplane. He is a musician, and has spent the last 35-40 years roaming the Caribbean, playing music, making friends, and generally living a very simple, pleasant life onboard.
As for Norman's Cay now, there are a few permanent residents, three cute vacation cottages (without bullet holes) and a lovely restaurant. The airstrip is still there and so are the docks, but both are decaying, and I think that's just the way the residents like it.
Subsequently, boaters like us who just like to anchor near an island for the evening and enjoy the scenery, were chased off by gun-toting guards. This, understandably, was met by some suspicion by boaters (a generally bright group), and the Bahamian police as well as the USDEA were notified. The DEA began surveillance of the island and Lehder's comings and goings, and in September of 1979, a raid by Bahamian police netted 33 Germans, Americans and Colombians. Lehder was, at the time, on a nearby island, and was captured attempting to flee in a small boat. He claimed he thought the police and DEA were coming to kidnap him. However, a corrupt Bahamian official had warned Lehder of the raid and Norman's Cay was spotless! Even though Lehder was arrested, he was released with no charges after turning over a suitcase containing $250,000 to Bahamian officials. He and his men were back in business within 48 hours!
Finally, in January of 1981, a 39 count indictment was handed down in US court naming Lehder and 13 others. By this time, Lehder was hiding out mostly in Columbia. The new plane designed to smuggle drugs crashed into the shallow water about 100 yards off the runway, and things generally began to look bleak for old Carlos. He was finally captured by Columbian authorities in February of 1987, just outside Medellin, and extradited to the United States. In May of 1988, Carlos was convicted and sentenced to life without parole plus 135 years.
We have been to Norman's Cay twice, now, and both times have eaten at the great little restaurant there. The restaurant is very simple, but truly elegant. The grouper dinner that John ate was caught by the restaurant manager that morning. It is the kind of place where the customers come to feel so much at home that when the manager or the server (who are also the cooks) are back in the kitchen, the 'regulars' get up and start serving the customers. Reservations are 'required', but if you don't have one, that's okay, too. Also, they don't start serving until 7:00, but if you want to eat at 6:00, that, again, is okay. (Very Bahamin). This time we met a guy who is about our age who has been cruising the Caribbean since the 1970's. He was in college in upstate New York, went to the Florida Keys for spring break, met some cruisers, and decided this was the life for him. He was here to reclaim his 39 foot boat, which had silted in (after having left it here 7 years ago) just behind the airplane. He is a musician, and has spent the last 35-40 years roaming the Caribbean, playing music, making friends, and generally living a very simple, pleasant life onboard.
As for Norman's Cay now, there are a few permanent residents, three cute vacation cottages (without bullet holes) and a lovely restaurant. The airstrip is still there and so are the docks, but both are decaying, and I think that's just the way the residents like it.
Haitian Fishing Boat Leaving Nassau Channel
These fishing boats have no lights, electronics or engines. They routinely travel back and forth between Haiti and the Bahamas using only a compass for navigation. This lateen rigged boat was tacking against the wind up the narrow Nassau Channel as dusk fell, heading for home.
Off Again!!!
Well, we're off again, after spending several weeks docked in Nassau. We got alot of things done on the boat and took care of much personal business, but we were getting pretty bored. (Actually, I didn't know I was bored until we started off again this morning, and I thought, "Oh, I like this so much better!") So, Sunday morning, May 4, we left Nassau and headed again for the Exumas, where we had been with Craig and Eleni. The wind was not in our favor, and we ended up motoring about 30 miles to Highborne Cay, where we anchored among the baby sharks and the mamma and poppa stingrays. As I write this, I think the baby shark (actually, there was only one) and the rays are under the boat in the shade. I would be if I were them. My thermometer says it's 93 in the cockpit!
To get from Nassau to here you have to go through kind of a 'mine field' of coral reefs. There is about a 10-mile stretch where you have to have someone on the bow of the boat looking out for the coral reefs which have grown so large they are almost above water. They appear like dark patches in the otherwise aquamarine water. Running into one of those could do a real number on the reef, not to mention the bottom of the boat.
We took advantage of being in Nassau and did some 'touristy' things, like went to Paradise Island. That is where most people go who visit the Bahamas on a cruise ship or on a tour of some kind. We also went to the downtown area of Nassau and looked at the neat stuff to buy, but all we bought was lunch. We took the bus all around the island just to see how the people live and what else is out there. The Bahamas is one of the more affluent countries in the region, and many people come here (legally or otherwise) looking for work. This has caused the same type of problems that we have in the US, and they have even fewer resources to deal with them. Last night, for example, we saw two Hatian boats (no engines, no lights, no navigational gear, etc.) leaving the harbor near sunset. We were saying goodbye to a friend we had made, who is the night watchman at the marina. He explained that those are the type of boats they smuggle Hatians into the Bahamas on. In almost 3 months in the Bahamas, we have seen no Bahamian Coast Guard. That's because there is none. They do have a rescue boat I have seen in Nassau, but it is a volunteer venture. I know they rely alot on the US Coast Guard, because the Bahamas is a stopping off point for the people-smuggling business. Next stop, Florida.
Like so many others (the lucky ones) our friend, Ron, the night watchman, came from Jamaica to the Bahamas in search of work. He has been here for 2 years and plans to stay one more. He is living frugally and saving in order to return to Jamaica, buy a couple of mini-vans and have his own taxi business. He would be considered very successful, and I'm sure he will be. In the meantime, we are supposed to be on the lookout for a wife~~something on his list he has not accomplished yet.
To get from Nassau to here you have to go through kind of a 'mine field' of coral reefs. There is about a 10-mile stretch where you have to have someone on the bow of the boat looking out for the coral reefs which have grown so large they are almost above water. They appear like dark patches in the otherwise aquamarine water. Running into one of those could do a real number on the reef, not to mention the bottom of the boat.
We took advantage of being in Nassau and did some 'touristy' things, like went to Paradise Island. That is where most people go who visit the Bahamas on a cruise ship or on a tour of some kind. We also went to the downtown area of Nassau and looked at the neat stuff to buy, but all we bought was lunch. We took the bus all around the island just to see how the people live and what else is out there. The Bahamas is one of the more affluent countries in the region, and many people come here (legally or otherwise) looking for work. This has caused the same type of problems that we have in the US, and they have even fewer resources to deal with them. Last night, for example, we saw two Hatian boats (no engines, no lights, no navigational gear, etc.) leaving the harbor near sunset. We were saying goodbye to a friend we had made, who is the night watchman at the marina. He explained that those are the type of boats they smuggle Hatians into the Bahamas on. In almost 3 months in the Bahamas, we have seen no Bahamian Coast Guard. That's because there is none. They do have a rescue boat I have seen in Nassau, but it is a volunteer venture. I know they rely alot on the US Coast Guard, because the Bahamas is a stopping off point for the people-smuggling business. Next stop, Florida.
Like so many others (the lucky ones) our friend, Ron, the night watchman, came from Jamaica to the Bahamas in search of work. He has been here for 2 years and plans to stay one more. He is living frugally and saving in order to return to Jamaica, buy a couple of mini-vans and have his own taxi business. He would be considered very successful, and I'm sure he will be. In the meantime, we are supposed to be on the lookout for a wife~~something on his list he has not accomplished yet.
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