WELCOME!!!

Since our retirement several years ago, we have
been on the move almost continuously: sailing Live Now, long distance hiking, and taking extensive road trips (therapy hasn't helped). We established this Blog to share our small adventures with family and friends and, as our aging memories falter, remind ourselves of just how much fun we're having. We hope you enjoy it. Your comments and questions are greatly appreciated. Our reports here are mostly true except in those cases where there is no way for others to verify the actual facts.



Death and Life on the High Seas

Swirling water sloshed up to my knees as I made my way into the main salon of Live Now.  Two midnight knockdowns in 75 knot winds and an inadvertently open port light nearly brought our 15 year cruising life, our life itself for that matter, to an end. 

May 10, 2017, just over 350 NM offshore, half way to Bermuda, Pat called me out of a light sleep around midnight, "Looks like we might get some rain.  Just saw some lightning off to the west."  I came on deck in time to see lightning knifing across a pitch black sky.  We had left Charleston 3 days earlier for Bermuda on our way to the Med.  Fifteen to 20 knot winds from the WSW and 1 to 2 feet seas, had made for perfect downwind sailing.  As has been our practice at dusk, we had already reduced sail on our stay-sail ketch, down to the mizzen and Yankee, sailing comfortably at 5 to 7 knots so I didn't see a need to reduce sail further.  The weather forecast remained pleasantly unchanged.  "I'll get the back panels and close up the cockpit, no sense in getting soaked," I said as I headed back below.

Pat had been on duty for 6 hours and midnight started my watch.  After securing the cockpit closures, I took the helm, checked our heading and sail instruments.  We started getting a bit more wind as the rain approached....and then we got, well, then we got knocked on our beams.  With no warning, the wind slammed into us and Live Now began a gentle, slow-motion heel to starboard.  Pat and I found ourselves standing on the backs of the cockpit seats in disbelief as the sails dipped into the sea.  One moment we're sailing perfectly upright with no seas to speak of and then we're on beams-end!  Pat started the engine as I immediately turned the helm into the erratic, swirling wind as Live Now started an agonizingly slow return upright.  The wind had jumped to a "tornadic" 75 knots.  Five minutes later, we're down again, masts horizontal to the water for a long minute or two.  I looked at Pat as the Live Now began regaining her feet.  "We're going to be okay.  You alright?"  Pat stared at me, "I'm scared shitless!"   Moments later, "There's water in the cabin!" she shouted, as we both stared in disbelief as water waved above the floor boards, racing back and forth as the boat rolled.  All of Live Now's electronics (batteries, circuit panel, newly installed inverter, radar, autohelm) are on the starboard side, the leeward side as the boat heeled.  From the cockpit we could see the water covering the navigation station settee and watched in horror as the status lights for each electronic component winked briefly under water and went out.   No battery power, lights, nav aids, no VHF radio, no Single Side Band radio.  Our newly purchased IridiumGo sat phone, placed in the nav station for "safe keeping", submerged, useless.  
  
Keeping Live Now steady into the now somewhat reduced but still fierce winds, Pat keep her under control as I struggled with a series of crises on deck.  The Yankee's jib sheet had somehow wrapped around the Man Overboard Pole and carried it about halfway up the mast!  I finally got the pole loose which promptly went overboard (without a man, fortunately) and tried to bring the sail in using the roller furling.  The furling line jammed requiring me to hang on with one hand at the bow and untangle 100 feet of line, then re-wrap it around the furling drum.  Green water swamped me repeatedly as the boat pitched in the now 4-5 foot waves.  Finally securing the head-sail, I returned aft and struggled to get the now torn mizzen sail down with the wind gusting and the deck pitching wildly.  All this had happened so fast and as I had been below sleeping, I had no time to don a life jacket, let alone safety harness and tether.  It did occur to me that taking the time to put on a life jacket would have been the prudent course of action.

The wind now suddenly dropped to a near calm as I returned to the cockpit.  It was then that I realized that the wetness on my head was more than sea water.  Either the mizzen boom or a snapping line had struck my forehead and blood was running copiously down the side of my head.  I covered my face with one hand as I entered the cockpit.  Pat looked at me and I said, "This isn't as bad as it's going to look." As I removed my hand, Pat's face, pale in contrast to the night's darkness, said,  "No, it's probably worst than it looks."  

With Pat in control at the helm, I went below.  The engine was still running with water sloshing just below the oil pan.  Water slammed from one side of the boat to the other and debris and loose floor boards made walking more than a bit hazardous, but we were pretty stable nevertheless.  All the water that came into the boat had come through two open portals in the main salon.  In hot, mild weather and smooth sailing we normally leave these ports open for ventilation.  The storm hit within moments of my coming on deck and to my great regret, it didn't dawn on me to shut them.  Assured that no more water was getting into the boat, although the turbulent water and darkness made this difficult to determine at first, I returned to the cockpit.

Pat had us heading due west.  Calm as usual in a crisis (unless it involves blood and my bleeding had pretty much stopped), Pat had quickly determined that returning to the States was our only option.  We had a hand-held VHF radio, GPS and functioning compass, with no damage to the rigging or hull, we should be okay, so as long as the boat stayed afloat.  One concern was that without electricity, we had no running lights and being a fiberglass boat we were pretty much invisible to marine traffic at night.  Still, with our handheld VHF we could notify and any ships we saw and give them our position.  In shock from the magnitude of this near disaster, it took a minute or two to notice steam rising from the engine room below.  Before we realized that it wasn't just seawater steaming off the manifold, the engine stopped.  Upon inspection, the cause of the problem, while a bit bizarre, was obvious.  A liter bottle of Pepsi had come adrift and found its way to the water pump pulley and had wedged itself between the pulley and the belt causing the belt to come off.  With no coolant circulating, the engine quickly overheated and stopped!  Dead in the water.

All of this took place in less than 2 hours!  

As dawn approached, I rigged the main and stay-sail (the Yankee and mizzen sails torn and unusable).  Now we had almost no wind, maybe 5 knots as we sailed along making 1 to 2 knots on a beam reach toward Charleston, SC, the boat sluggish but stable.  Our immediate need was to start removing the tons of water we had taken on.  Pat had to stay at the helm, hand steering and the chaos below made the boat uninhabitable.   I tried rigging a spare electric bilge pump to the solar panel but the pump drew too many amps and proved unworkable.  I have several manual bilge pumps, but with a year's supply of now waterlogged toilet paper, paper towels and miscellaneous packaging that had come adrift quickly clogged them.  So, a five gallon bucket on a rope proved the only effective system.  I stood over the open forward hatch, dropped the inverted bucket with a line attached into the cabin; hoist, dump, repeat;  drop, hoist, dump, repeat; drop, hoist, dump repeat...for 6 days; finally getting the water below the floorboards.  While I busied myself with water removal, Pat hand steered the whole time with my spelling her when I could!

For six days and nights we lived in the cockpit.  All our food (stored mostly on the port side) including the refrigerated food remained eatable.  We still could use the propane stove and, fortunately, I had 36 reserve gallons of fresh water stored on deck (the water in the water tanks below probably contaminated by seawater and, of course, the electric water pumps weren't functioning).  I hooked up our VHS radio to the solar panel which proved invaluable (at least during daylight hours) when our handheld battery died.  Our Porta-Potti, temporarily installed in the cockpit, came in handy as well. 

The weather gods, perhaps now in regret for visiting this catastrophe upon us, gave us calm weather for our slow journey back.  We had flat water and no more than 10 knots of wind, usually less.  While this made for extremely slow progress, we rejoiced in the placid seas and clear skies.  On one occasion, Pat turned to me and said, "Actually, I'm kinda enjoying this."  However, as we neared the U.S. coast and the Gulf Stream, our plodding progress found us unable to make good toward our goal.  The Gulf Stream, running 1 or 2 knots pushed us gradually to the NE.  Originally, we hoped to make Charleston for repairs.  However, we needed to make a little 'southing' to get there and that wasn't happening.  Georgetown looked possible but we soon found ourselves drifting too far north.  So, then, we thought, Southport, a bit north of Georgetown.  But it became clear that Southport presented a potentially serious problem.  We may have made it but the inlet for Southport is guarded to the north by Frying Pan Shoals.  With a light wind from the south and leeway, we could easily find ourselves on the reef.  So, we elected to head north of the shoals for the Mason Inlet near Wrightsville Beach.

Our plan was to get within towing distance and contact Tow Boat US.  However, first, we called the USCG on the radio as soon as we were within range, worried that our children would be concerned if we hadn't contacted them when we were expected to arrive in Bermuda.  The Charleston Coast Guard was great.  We explained that what had happened, advised them of our location and that we had no running lights but were in no  immediate danger.  They agreed to contact our daughter and just let her know that we had run into some technical difficulties and were returning to the States but were OK.   As it turned out, they weren't worried at all, much to our dismay (our children maintain their lack of worry was due to an abiding, if misplaced, confidence in our capability, not a lack of concern) . 

Fifteen NM off the coast, we contacted Tow Boat US around dusk on May 21st and arranged a tow.  We dropped anchor about 10:00 PM in the Wrightsville Beach anchorage.   Our troubles weren't over.  All the marinas within 50 miles were full!   It was several days and a 30 NM tow to Wilmington NC before we could finally get into a marina that could address our repair needs.   After two more nights on Live Now in the cockpit, we finally broke down and rented a car, found a motel, had several good meals and had a good cry (well, I didn't cry, of course, I'm the captain, captains don't cry, we just obsess over our mistakes and 'shoulda's')  

The insurance surveyor totaled Live Now.  Estimated repair costs exceeded the insurance max.  They would have sold her back to us for as little as $5000 after the settlement which I believe would have more than covered the cost but given the time it would take to make the extensive repairs, and given the blood and treasure we had put into outfitting her for our transatlantic trip, as well as, the trauma of this adventure, we elected to let Live Now go.  

Had I closed those portals, we'd be posting about our transatlantic undertaking from an exotic port on the Mediterranean.  But all in all, we we feel pretty lucky.  Sadly, there was one fatality, however.  Inexplicably, a tiny frog had somehow  found it's way onto the boat. We discovered the little stowaway the day after the storm. We have no idea where it came from or how it got aboard.  Unfortunately, she was apparently lost at sea the next day and never seen again.

After Nearly 6 Days Bailing


Elks and Birds

On Wednesday, July 7, we went back to the Point Reyes park and saw a special presentation by a ranger and the video on the Native Americans who had lived here.  We then drove to the end of the peninsula to the elk reserve.  Saw several herds of elk and one big male with great antlers.  We took a hike to the shore through a pass through the hills.  Saw tons of wildflowers and black sand on part of the beach.  We drove back to camp, stopping in San Rafael for a nice Italian dinner.




On Thursday, we picked up our mail that we had had forwarded to Point Reyes general delivery, did laundry, and continued up the Pacific Coast Highway.  It was amazing the difference between the coast, which was foggy, windy and cold, and 5 miles inland where it was sunny and hot.

We drove up to Bodega Bay and got a campsite.  You may remember Bodega Bay is the place where the movie "The Birds" was filmed.  Just had to go check out the site of the movie and take some pictures.  Afterwords, we drove to Bodega Point, read, ate popcorn and watched pods of gray whales.  We camped at Sonoma Coast State Beach.




Some Fairly Good Days

On Saturday, July 3, we drove over to Muir Woods.  Being the Saturday of July 4 weekend, it was really crowded, so we drove on past and found Muir Beach, which was almost deserted.  We took our chairs, a picnic, our books and sat on the beach and read all day.

On Sunday, July 4, I woke up fine, but after some juice I got really sick.  I'm a bundle of fun.  And, here it is a holiday.  We spent the day in the hotel watching the history channel.  I was able to eat pizza for dinner.

On Monday, July 5, I was better, so we checked out of the hotel in El Cerrito and got a campsite at China Camp, outside San Rafael.  Then, we went to the Marin County Fair, which was absolutely great!  We saw the 4 Tops, the Temptations, a really good art show, all the animals, dressage, ate junk food.  All my favorite stuff.  However, the gods were not content to let me have a perfect day, so on the way out of the fairgrounds, I tripped on a piece of unfinished concrete and fell flat on my face.  Skinned my face up something terrible (I will not share that picture.), hurt my hand and crushed my chest.  I did not break my fall at all.  Couldn't believe I didn't break my nose.  To top it all off, when we got back to the campground, they had locked the gates and John had to hike in and ask the not-too-happy camp manager to let us in.  Oh, well, it was still a great fair.

The next day we spent in camp, just relaxing and allowing me to heal some.  I had a hard time sleeping, because I was so sore.  Had a nice campfire that evening.  While we were sitting around the campfire, here comes a raccoon and climbs right up on our picnic table to see what we had.  We also saw deer, a coyote, 5 pileated woodpeckers  and a family of wild turkeys. 



Starting up the Pacific Coast Highway

Basing ourselves at the hotel in El Cerrito, we journeyed out on Thursday, July 1, to Tiburon and Sausalito and towns surrounding the San Francisco Bay.  What a beautiful area.  I don't think I have ever seen towns that just scream 'pride' in the way the houses and yards are kept.  The yards are full of flowers~~and the towns, too.  Everything is just done to the hilt, and to me spoke volumes of the way the people feel about living there.  It may also say something about the climate and their ability to have flowers all year long, which maybe makes all the effort worth it (or maybe it just screams money), I don't know.  Also, that day, we went to Fort Baker and to a Mammal Recovery place and saw rescued orphaned seals of all kinds.

At this point, we have decided to meander up the coastal highway.  We had, on a previous trip, done the pacific coast highway from San Diego to San Francisco.  We now look forward to seeing the rest of the coast.  We know we will not be disappointed.  The first thing on our list is the Point Reyes National Seashore.  I am fascinated by the San Andreas fault, and it runs right through the park.  We went there Friday and looked at all their exhibits and the film about the area.  We walked 4 trails, including the Earthquake Trail and an Indian village.

The San Andreas fault in this park ruptured during he 1906 San Francisco earthquake, and moved 20 feet in 90 seconds on that day.  Here is a picture of a fence which had been in one piece until the 1906 earthquake.  I am standing by the part that has moved.  Original location of fence is in foreground. The crack in the earth has 'healed'.

On to Oakland

The following morning, Wednesday, June 30, we left the hotel and headed around the bay towards Oakland.  We walked around downtown Oakland, went to a bar where Jack London had hung out (he wasn't there), and saw his rustic log cabin, which had been moved from Alaska to Oakland after the author became famous.

We then took a tour of Franklin Roosevelt's 'Floating White House', the 'Potomac', which had been restored.  It had been originally a Coast Guard boat which was used during prohibition as a way to run down the moonshiners.  Afterwards, it was used by the White House as a Presidential yacht.  For a Presidential yacht, however, it was very plain.  Had been fitted to accommodate FDR's wheelchair.  After FDR, it went through several incarnations, including being once owned by Elvis who gave it to St. Jude's Children's Hospital.  It ended up being confiscated by the Coast Guard several years ago.  It had started out as what we would today call a 'drug runner' boat, and ended up being used to run drugs into the country.  Ironic, huh?

We toured the rest of Oakland by car and drove on up to El Cerrito by back roads and got a motel room, as we could not find a campsite.  Had a great Thai dinner in Auburn. 

The Streets of San Francisco

On Sunday morning, June 27, we broke camp and drove into Sonoma for the last time.  We had breakfast at our favorite outdoor cafe there and headed for San Francisco.  We had not planned to do any cities on this trip~~we are not usually city people~~but decided we like San Francisco enough to go there again.  We found a campsite online and went there.  It was by the water outside the city and looked great.  However, it was $35 for a campsite!  A cheap hotel near the airport was $44, so we opted for the cheap hotel.  At least it had a bathtub.  That, unfortunately, is about the only positive thing that could be said for the hotel.  We settled in, planned our 'attack' of San Francisco, watched a movie and had dinner at a nearby restaurant.

Monday, we took the bus from our hotel downtown and spent the entire day walking the streets of San Francisco.  Went to the Embarkadero, the big market, the marina, the maritime historic park and Chinatown.  Had lunch at the Ferry Building and dinner in Chinatown.  Walked back to the bus and went back to our hotel.  Unfortunately, it was still there.

Tuesday, we again took the bus into the city.  We got off at the area around City Hall and explored that area.  We had lunch from an outdoor vendor in Civic Center Park and joined about 100 other people gathered around a large TV screen and watched part of the World Cup Finals.

We walked from there down to Ghiradelli Square on the water and had hot fudge sundaes for desert.  On the way we walked down Lombard street, the most crooked street in America, passed the opera house, the symphony, the main library, city hall, etc.  (Not in that order.)  We unexpectedly found the place where all the cable cars in the city are run from~~all cables meet at a central station~~and went in to their little museum and actually watched the cables do their thing.  Very simple, but effective.  We walked through Nob Hill and on to Union Square, where we stopped and did a little people watching.  Had dinner at a diner and came back to the hotel about 7 pm.








Putting the Brakes On

On Friday, June 25, we started out to go to the northern part of wine country.  When we got to the town of Santa Rosa, the brakes made such a horrible noise that we decided we'd better get them checked out.  We found a Firestone place that would do it while we waited and went to a nearby mall for lunch.  Due to (I would say) our lack of diligence, we ended up getting whole new brake assemblies in front and 4 new tires.  Well, she's good to go, now.  We had around 250,000 miles on the car and were joking with the guy there that we were going for 300,000.  He said, heck, the way this car is going, you can go for 350,000!  I'll let you know when she bites the dust.  But, on to 350!

We ended up back in Sonoma for dinner at Mary's pizza, walked around this beautiful town once again, and back to camp.

On Saturday, June 26, we tried to find the Sonoma County Fair that we saw advertised, but it must have been pretty small.  We missed it.  Ended up instead going to Healdsburg, the northernmost town of wine country.  Had lunch and walked around town.  Being Saturday, it was quite crowded with some well-heeled looking people.  The town itself was very upscale, and two old campers like us didn't quite seem to fit in, but it was pretty and no one seemed to care that we didn't fit in.

We went to Bella Vineyards where you sit outside the cave in which they house the wines and enjoy the live music in the yard.  On the scenic ride back to our campsite we just missed the last tour of Korbel vineyards~~the champagne people.  Oh, well, it's been a great day anyway.