Doing the Ditch

Making it to Norfolk elicited a feeling of both arriving and of beginning. To this point, we simply had been 'moving the boat'. Now, we could begin cruising in the manner in which we had envisioned it. Moving as and when we pleased, stopping where and when the impulse suggested.

Leaving Little Creek Marina, just inside the Chesapeake Bay, on Sunday, December 9, we found ourselves in the company of freighters, tankers, Navy vessels and recreational boaters. Naval Station Norfolk and Norfolk Naval Base with its 8000 acres, 78 ships, 133 aircraft, 14 piers and 15 hangars is the largest military station in the world. The Port Authority controls on average 3100 ships annually. The Bay funnels you to the beginning of the Intra-Coastal Waterway (ICW) past this impressive array of military might. We had great weather and enjoyed an easy passage past the twin cities of Norfolk and Portsmouth into the "ditch".

The first 50 miles of the ICW includes 14 bridges; 12 of which require contacting the bridge tender to open, raise or swing to allow us to pass. At mile 11.5, you enter the Great Bridge Lock designed to accommodate the moderate tidal changes. All this makes for slow going but we enjoyed the protocol of calling the bridge on the radio and requesting an opening or communicating our intention to pass through the lock or bridges for those that open on schedule. We entered the Great Bridge Lock just behind Sea Gypsies, out of Bristol, RI.

With a 62' mast, we held our breath as we passed under our first fixed highway bridge with a stated clearance of 65'. Visions of wrecked rigging flashed through my head as we passed under I-64. Nevertheless, we made it through with sighs of relief.

Just past the Great Bridge Lock we moored for the night at free docks compliments of the town of Great Bridge VA . We were greeted by a local real estate agent who provided area information about services, restaurants, and local history (I am sure you all recall from your U.S. history that the Revolutionary War Battle of Great Bridge was fought here.). He also offered assistance in locating property should we be in the market.

We passed through the Great Bridge with its first scheduled opening of the day and had a quiet, sunny but windy ride to Coinjock, NC. Coinjock which means 'land of plentiful mulberries' boasts two marinas and two restaurants (1 of each on either side of the waterway). More importantly, it is home of the Coinjock Marina 'World Famous' 32 oz prime rib! We have been stuck here for 3 days now trying to finish the dinner we ordered shortly after arrival. Actually, Pat has been under the weather a bit (flu) and we are giving her time to recover before continuing.

The ICW requires constant attention with at least two people to navigate safely: one to steer and keep an eye on the depth sounder and one to spot. The waterway was designed to have a minimum depth of 12'. However, funds have not been made available to maintain this minimum and some places are as shallow as 4'. We draw 5.5'. Even in the deeper sections, the channel is relatively narrow with shallow water to either side. With wind, current and traffic, you have to keep aligned with day markers placed along the waterway, usually, but not always within line of sight. Charts contain all the markers; numbered to enable you to keep track of where you are and need to go. With Pat out of commission, it would be imprudent to proceed. Pat is on the mend, however, and we expect to continue tomorrow to Alligator River Marina, then, Bellhaven, Oriental with our last stop on the ICW at Moorehead City.