To access a topological map showing the AT route and shelters click on the Appalachian Trail Map link in "Useful Links".
Day 38/42. Jun 24, Sunday, Congdon Shelter, VT
Miles From Katahdin: 582.2; Miles Hiked To Date: 582.7; Miles Hiked Today: 17.1
Early start, 6:00 am, and a good day all around. We needed provisions due to poor planning and hiked down the mountain to MA2, then .7m to North Adams. “Price Chopper” super market provided everything we needed. A Stop and Shop was only .3m off the trail in the other direction but going to Price Chopper put us next door to Friendly's Restaurant – Breakfast with a milkshake for Brad! We were back on the trail by about 9:30 am. I keep thinking that the trail is getting easier. Brad thinks were just more trail fit. I know that with the pain gone in my feet (although my toes still tingle) I feel better about it all. We had a very steep descent at the start today but the trail was reasonably moderate. We met “Knightrider”, a college aged NOBO. He started from Springer in February! He hikes in sandals! I asked him what he was going to do for footwear when got to the Whites. He said that he would stay with his sandals. Crazy!
Sucker Pond
Thru-Hikers all talk about the Whites. Most see them as the ultimate challenge but some, after hiking the AT for several months, assume the Whites can't be too different. Brad and I had hiked extensively in the Whites, of course, and know that they are on a different scale of difficulty. Anyone who has made it thus far shouldn't have any problem, but I don't think anyone is going to put in 20 mile days! The terrain and the weather make that nearly impossible. We met a SOBO'er the other day who, coming over Kinsman, faced 30 mph winds and 30 degree temperatures! I don't know if Knightrider will make it in his sandals. As he lit up a joint, he us told that he was about to give it up. He's too tired to continue.
Beaver Pond
We reached Congdon Shelter around 4:00 pm. A father and his 12 year old son were there. Knightrider stopped by but went on to try and catch up with a friend. The boy's trail name is “Music Box”. They are section hikers. Brian and Jackie arrived shortly after us. This is their first attempt at backpacking and are having a predictably tough time of it. Jackie had packed a mixed green salad, carried in Tupperware. She shared it with us to our great appreciation and delight. Music Box's father gave us a lot of good information about the trail ahead. He recommended stopping in Killington, VT, at the Long Trail Inn (something we were already considering). Tomorrow we plan to do 20 miles.
Day 39/43. June 25, Monday, Kid Gore Shelter, VT
Miles From Katahdin: 563.5; Miles Hiked To Date: 601.4; Miles Hiked Today: 18.7
We made about 19 miles today. Pretty good. A long descent and 2 long climbs took time. We caught up with Knightrider, who had left Congdon Shelter late yesterday in an attempt to catch up with his friend, believed to be at Goddard Shelter (great spot!). The three of us had lunch at Goddard but Knightrider's friend, unfortunately, wasn't there. We did meet a couple hiking the Long Trail SOBO. “Harmony” and “Rodwalker”. They are from Montreal. They provided good advice about the Whistle Stop restaurant in North Claredon, close to the trail ahead, and he endorsed earlier recommendations for the Long Trail Inn. We plan to stay there Friday or Saturday night. Much warmer weather today but not oppressive. The forecast calls for real hot weather later this week. We tried unsuccessfully to call Pat.
Glastenbury Mtn Observation Tower View
We lunched atop an old fire tower on Mt. Glastonbury. The black flies were so bad that that was the only place we could find any peace! We're feeling pretty good with our daily mileage. Most Thru-Hikers average just under 16mpd through this section.
Kid Gore will not make our list of one of the great shelters. Porcupine quills litter the floor and the place is filthy. Rodwalker impaled himself on a long quill as he sat down. These varmints have nested here and left quite a mess of quills and dung. We cleaned up the place as best we could. One saving grace is that the shelter has a great view and a eastern exposure, granting us a quiet, pastel sunrise.
Blue Beard Lily
Day 40/44, June 26, Tuesday. William B. Douglas Shelter, VT
Miles From Katahdin: 543.6; Miles Hiked To Date: 621.3; Miles Hiked Today: 19.9
Another great hiking day. We got away just before 6:00 am. The AT passes through beautiful woods and is relatively free of rocks. A number of places, however, were pretty muddy. These woods were the quietest we've hiked: no traffic or lawnmower noise, noticeable by their absence. No bird song either. We passed maybe one or two short distance hikers. The hiking challenge of the day was Mt. Stratton (3936'). Not a bad ascent and we were rewarded with a great view from atop an old fire tower. We lunched there and decided whether or not to stop at Stratton Pond and take a swim or go on to either Douglas or Spruce Peak Shelter (a 20 or 23 mile hike, respectively). As has been our practice, we decided to decide after we got to the Pond, just over 3 miles away.
We arrived at the Pond around 1:30 PM. We agreed that it was too early to stop. Brad wants to make sure that we make it to the Whistle Stop restaurant (expected Monday). It must mean something that he is thinking about meals several days away! The Whistle Stop is supposed to have the best hamburgers and omelets on the Trail. Anyway, we rested at the shelter for a while, then started again. As the Trail passed the Pond, I couldn't resist and told Brad, “Let's just take a quick dip!” So, we did.
Brad Swimming in Stratton Pond
The Pond was completely deserted. It was fantastic! The water cool enough for second thoughts at the first plunge but warm enough to feel great after the initial shock. We swam, cleaned off a bit, wrung out our clothes and began our walk again.
We made it to Wm B. Douglas Shelter around 5:00 pm. Nice shelter and spring but a long way from the trail. A solo Long Trail hiker named Deb arrived around 6:00 pm and we had a great conversation. She owns and operates an upscale toy store somewhere in CT. She had 2 weeks to hike and is about to finish her hike. Very nice lady. She has 3 sons: a former Coast Guard sailor (now in school), an artist and a student studying Philosophy. Ranging from their 20's to 30's, they all live with her!
Tomorrow we would like to do the 22 miles to Big Branch Shelter. It might be a tough one .
Bunchberry
Day 41/45. June 27, Wednesday. Peru Peak Shelter, VT
Miles From Katahdin: 527.7; Miles Hiked To Date: 637.2; Miles Hiked Today: 15.9
We only made 16 miles today. Three steep climbs coupled with hot, muggy weather worked against a long mileage day. Tomorrow bodes better as the terrain is not as rugged. We still hope to eat at the Whistle Stop and then the Long Trail Inn. Maybe a zero day in Rutledge/Killington. A self-described “European” (not German or English or Dutch, a 'European'. I think he's Dutch) hiking the VT-NH section of the AT holed up here after hurting his knee. He had planned to hike from the MA border through the White Mountains but now plans to only go as far as Hanover. He said that he's disappointed with the trail so far, it doesn't compare with the Alps. There are no views , just trees. Actually I agree (but I didn't like him criticizing our mountains!). The mountain ridges in VT lie below the tree line so you climb one mountain after another through beautiful forest, but the only reward when you get to the top is a descent and another climb. Still, if he was expecting something like the Alps, he didn't research his hike very well.
Today we climbed Mt. Bromley (3260') and climbed the fire/observation tower, but it was so hazy you couldn't see much. The other two 'summits' (Spruce and Peru) had no good views. Spruce had an overlook with an obstructed view. Neither peak had identifying signs and with no clear 'top' we had a hard time determining where we were (kind of important if you want to know how much further you have to go!). Nevertheless, we had a good day. We wanted to go farther but it really didn't make much sense to do so and we stopped a bit early. I'm sitting by a wonderful stream and enjoying the sound, soaking my feet. There's a young woman here at the shelter as well; solo hiking until her partner joins her.
Large Trees Attacked by BeaverDay 44/49, July 1, Sunday. Stony Brook Shelter, VT
MFK: 478.0 MHTD: 686.9 MMTGD: 49.7 (22.3+17.4+10)
A lot of catching up to do. We left Peru Peak Shelter at our usual early time on Thursday (6/28). We had an exceptional hike of 22+ miles. We were motivated by the prospect of a good meal in North Clarendon at the Whistle Stop! We are so sick of trail food!!! For the first time in my life, I have hunger but no appetite! It rained the night before and the cooler, less humid air made for good hiking weather. The trail typifies the VT AT: beautiful woods with stately trees and almost landscaped underbrush, remote ponds/lakes, and gushing streams. Also, the usual SUDS (Senseless Ups and Downs). I found myself myself struggling with the uphills and begin to wonder if my food intake (or lack thereof) is affecting my strength. Brad seems to climb the hills effortlessly but several times I had to stop to catch my breath. It's frustrating. I know I'm in shape. I'm not sure how much weight I've lost but it's got to be significant. I feel I should be able to do better.
Nevertheless, we made it to VT103 and walked to the Whistle Stop Cafe. A glass of water, a glass of milk, 2 cokes, a shared order of onion rings, a salad, a bleu cheeseburger, fries, and a milkshake seemed to satisfy my hunger for the moment! We planned to walk to the Country Squire Motel (1.5 miles) and spend the night. It was already late afternoon and we thought a motel sounded good. Also, the Whistle Stop is renown for its over-sized omelets! We looked forward to breakfast. As we were eating our milkshake dessert on the cafe's deck, 3 women asked about hiking the trail. We told them our story – father/son, etc – and they asked a lot of questions. In the course of the conversation, I told them that were looking for the Country Squire Motel -did they know where it was? They weren't familiar with the motel but one offered to give us a ride. The waitress said the motel was about a mile down the road, just off the highway. Anyway, “Kathy” borrowed her friends car and we shortly found the motel – CLOSED!!! OUT OF BUSINESS!!! FOR SALE!!! The Thru Hikers Handbook for 2007 had failed us!!! Kathy said that the nearest hotel was in the Holiday Inn in Clarendon – about 8 miles away, and, therefore, 10 miles from the AT! With the day waning and having walked 22 miles already, we didn't want to get back on the trail, so we accepted her generous offer to drop us in Clarendon. She waited while we checked in to make sure we could get a room, which we did. Now, we're a half day's walk from the trail head!!! The clerk said that they had a shuttle that went to the airport, but the AT was out of its range. The airport is only a couple of miles from the AT, so no problem. I thought that I could probably talk the driver into taking us the extra miles to trail head.
The Holiday Inn was pretty nice: indoor pool, jacuzzi, restaurant. We took advantage of it all! However, when Brad checked for messages (we didn't have any service until we got to the hotel), he found a message from Pat. She reported that Oedipus had taken a turn for the worst; that she thought it was time to put an end to her suffering. We called immediately and Pat had arranged an appointment with the Vet that very evening. Knowing how much Oedi was suffering, there was no doubt that this was the best thing. I think we were prepared for this eventuality. She didn't want us to come home. She felt she could handle it. She, did, however, want to meet us.
We had already talked about going into Killington – the next town on the trail and home to the 'Long Trail Inn', the oldest ski lodge in VT, serving Guinness on tap at the proper temperature in the “liveliest Irish Pub west of Boston” and very hiker friendly. So, we agreed to meet her there either Friday or Saturday, depending on how we hiked.
We talked to Pat again after she left the vets. Sadly, Oedipus, who had been our companion for many years , sailing and keeping birds off the deck, was no more. Pat said the procedure went well, there were no problems. We were all very sad but it was clear that Oedipus was ready and there was no prospect of any sort of quality life.
The next morning we ate a hearty breakfast at the hotel. While checking out, we were able to arrange to get dropped off at the AT Trail head. We were going to have a late start due to the breakfast and the need to make a quick run to the nearby mini market to get supplies. The hotel manager took us to the trail, even stopping at the Whistle Stop for Brad to check to see if he had left his sunglasses there. The hotel manager's brother is a long distance hiker and we had a nice conversation. Twice in as many days, strangers have gone out of their way to help us. If nothing else, this trip has made us realize how kind people can be.
Glorious weather and the nourishment taken in the last 24 hours, while not easy, made a tremendous difference in my stamina (I should note that on the doctor's scale in the hotel's fitness center, I weighed in at 146! At the DWG, I weighed 176 and started the trip at 185). We had great a hike, passing few overviews, but did come across some unusual stone “sculptures” - consisting of stacked stones, some several feet high, and covering an area over 100 feet long. A little weird, a little scary!
Deep Woods Bewitching StonesWe made US 54 and Killington by 4:30 Friday. Pat picked us up and within an hour we were showered and in the Long Trail Inn Pub eating some of the best nachos ever served in an Irish Pub! We ate dinner at the Pub as well and retired to our room, resting. We didn't want to miss the live entertainment that began at 8:00 pm. Irish music played to a nearly empty house. The singer, Tom O'Carroll, regularly performs at the Inn and was very good. But, no one was there. We left around 10:00 pm.
The Inn features exposed beams made from beech trees with the bark in tact, lamps made of branches, log seats . The building itself is carved into the side of a cliff with large boulders integrated into the walls and used as seats, benches and hearths. The rooms are simple – no TV and antiquated plumbing. The manager introduced himself and asked about our hike – very friendly – clearly loves hikers. It was so great to be with Pat and to relax awhile. We took a zero day Saturday – went to Rutland's Farmer's Market, Price Choppers, 2 outfitters shops and drove over to Woodstock for lunch. Woodstock is the quintessential VT town – large town center green, 19th Century architecture, covered bridge and plenty of shops. It was a beautiful day. We ate well and finished the day with dinner at the Three Tomatoes Restaurant in Rutland. Big day. I could have probably spent the day relaxing at the Inn, but poor Pat has been alone all this time, dealing with Oedipus and taking care of everything on her own. She needed to get out and I'm glad we did.
Trail Magic - Soda Cooling in Mountain Stream
Back on the Trail this morning – overcast and cool – we only hiked 10 miles, stopping here at 2:00 pm. 10 miles to the next shelter, too far, too late in the day. We didn't leave the Inn until about 9;30 (Breakfast was included with the room but wasn't served until 7:30 am). Another typical up and down day. We did see a young black bear just after we passed Kent Pond. We were joined at the shelter by 3 teachers ('Token', Katlin and ?). They are SOBO to MA on the Long Trail.
Now, dinner, then bed.
Day 45/50, July 2, Monday, Thistle Hill Shelter. VT
Miles From Katahdin: 456.5; Miles Hiked To Date: 708.4; Miles Hiked Today: 21.5
We awakened around 10:00 last night to a hiker arriving late, knocking something over, making a racket. No one even commented. We all automatically moved over to make room in the crowded shelter. We had a full house, with 7 hikers. I always feel a little bad about our getting up so early and perhaps disturbing the sleep of others so, in trying to get away quietly this morning, we moved our gear behind the log shelter to roll mattresses, stuff our sleeping bags, thinking that we would be less likely to disturb those sleeping (everyone but us). Unfortunately, any sound we made penetrated the unmortised logs and were amplified by the shelter's shape. So, an innocent sound, easily identified by a waking hiker, became suspicious, a bear or intruder! Token popped around the shelter to see what was going on. I felt embarrassed. We hurriedly packed and left.
We did stop shortly on the trail and had a nice breakfast of granola and blueberry cereal, using instant milk. Pretty good. We'll stock up next chance we get. Great weather for hiking, cool, partly sunny. Another typical, up and down. We got one nice view from atop a private cabin that's open to hikers. It has an observation platform built on the roof and offers a spectacular views. Had I been aware of it, we could have pressed on yesterday and stayed there. We saw a few people on the trail – all day hikers. The day was capped with an unexpected treat!
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| From AT Thru Hike |
Ice Cream! The AT crosses Cloudland Road and a sign directs hikers to an organic farm .2 miles to the left. It took Brad and I about 2 seconds to agree to check it out! They offer free water and sell beef jerky, ice cream, honey and soda; all organic and all homemade. Brad and I shared a pint of vanilla mint (vanilla ice cream with bits of mint leaf). It was great! We also had some of their soda, root beer. So all and all, a great day. On top of that we walked 20 miles! We were joined this evening by a father and his 2 sons, hiking the VT section of the AT. They are from Oxford, ME. Tomorrow we'll go into Hanover. We aren't going to get to the road where we had arranged to meet Pat and I left a message for her. Tonight we can hear quail demonstrating by thumping their wings on their chests. We came upon a hen this morning who had chicks. She put on a nice show to distract us. At lunch today, we stopped at the Wintturi Shelter to get water. Our Miox treatment system has failed us! We had to use the purification tablets. Still, we need to replace the Miox with something else. Many hikers don't even treat the water as long as it's a spring or fast moving stream. We usually treat, but if the spring is up in the mountain with no farm or civilization up stream, we have taken the water without treating it.
We'll meet Pat in Hanover. Brad is excited about taking some time to celebrate the 4th of July and seeing fireworks!
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