To access a topological map showing the AT route and shelters click on the Appalachian Trail Map link in "Useful Links".
Day 124/151, Oct 11, Thursday, Hiawassee,
Miles From Springer: 66.6; Miles Hiked To Date: 2107.4; Miles Hiked Today: 30.9
Day 125/152, Oct 12, Friday, Deep Gap Shelter,
Miles From Springer: 63.1; MHTD: 2110.9 MMGTD: 3.5
We Saw No Sign (other than this one) of Aggressive Bears
Yesterday at noon, as we finished lunch atop Standing Indian Mountain, Brad suggested that we solve our resupply problem by hiking all the way to Hiawassee. That meant another 18 miles (we had already made 13 miles) before dark. Hiawassee, 10 miles from the trail, requiring a hitch from the trial head or finding a shuttle. We had little faith in the cell phone, being so remote. If we didn't get a ride, we'd have to stealth camp somewhere. Or, maybe hitchhike in the dark. He convinced me that we should try pointing out that we wanted to make Unicoi Gap for our promised Trail Angel feast. Getting to Hiawassee required averaging 3 miles an hour for 6 hours: faster than we've ever walked. Of course, if we could also stop at one of the shelters we'd pass on the way. Anyway, we set off at a blistering rate, moving downhill so fast that only our trekking poles kept us from falling forward. Fortunately, the trail was pretty well maintained.
Soon, we met a NOBO who had hiked Harpers Ferry to Katahdin last year. He recommended the Hiawassee Inn. While we talked to him, Brad tried his cell and to our surprise got a signal. We arranged to get picked up at 7:00, giving us some leeway. We kept up our fast pace and actually got to the trailhead by 6:00 pm.
The Inn is actually a regular hotel, not a hostel as we first thought. The owner let us use his van to drive to Daniels Steakhouse, an “all you can eat” buffet. To our surprise, we met up with Lopsided at the motel and he went with us. He had gotten sick (some kind of stomach thing) after leaving Fontana Dam. He left the trail and hitched a ride to a clinic. After being treated, he rested up at the Inn for a day and was heading out again on the twelfth (today).
We all went to dinner together around 7:30. When we returned to the Inn at 8:45 pm, the owner/manager came out of the office angrily and chastised us saying, “Usually, we hikers take one of our cars they just go to the restaurant, do their shopping and come back!” Surprised by his anger, I responded, “All we did was eat, we haven't even been to the grocery.” He repeated his accusation saying that we had violated a privilege. I was pretty tired and let my resentment color my response and edgily pointed out that we hadn't left until 7:30 and were only gone a little over an hour. He basically didn't accept that response. Finally, I said, “Look, if there was a time limit or deadline to return, you should have said something. We came into town to relax, get some decent food and resupply. If I had known we weren't going to be able to do that, I would have gone to the Holiday Inn (next door to the grocery and restaurant). He said that the office was kept open waiting for us, etc. He then said that he couldn't commit to getting us to the trail head tomorrow afternoon (something he had promised earlier). I asked if there was any other shuttle service. He finally told me “Sally or Joyce might be able to get you there.” He then called them and set it up.
Apparently, there's some kind of harvest festival in town starting the next day. The manager, it turned out, was stressed out, booked solid. Still,no one raised his voice, but the exchange definitely had an edge to it and I felt bad. It was so unlike every other experience we'd had on the trail.
I think some of these hiker hostel/service providers want to be both a business and an altruistic endeavor. The manager saw his lending us the van as a pure privilege – a generous offer that we abused. Actually, the only reason we stayed at his place was the fact that use of a vehicle was an advertised perk of staying there. The price difference between his place and the Holiday Inn is negligible. During our exchange, he made a point of telling us that “his man” had picked us up at the trail. I pointed out that we had paid him $20 plus a tip to do so for 20 minutes work. Anyway, the whole thing left a bad feeling between us.
This morning I woke up around 5:30, took a bath (my 3rd) and walked into “town” while Brad slept. They have a really nice coffee shop here. It had opened early, as I found out, to cater to a local high school soccer team. Along with great coffee, I got to hear the coach quote scripture, pray for victory, and somehow tie it altogether with the soccer adage, “when in doubt, kick it out.” It had something to do with sinful actions and putting the ball out of bounds. I didn't get it but the team listened attentively. All the while, the coach's 3 year old, bored and ignored, hung on his leg or lay between his feet as he paced before the group. Anyway, it was fun watching the kids interact. All the coffee house personnel knew all the local clientele. They clearly had more than a strictly business relationship with their customers.
Brad joined me as I was returning to the Inn. We went to the BBQ place (recommended by the clerk in the grocery store) for breakfast. It was most excellent. Two hours later, we went back for lunch.
We ended up only hiking about 4 miles, up to the next shelter, as planned. We head for Low Gap tomorrow passing through Unicoi Gap (GA 16) where we hope to meet up with Boomerang and his promised “serious trail magic.”
Day 126/153, Oct 13, Saturday, Low Gap Shelter,
Miles From Springer: 41.1; Miles Hiked To Date: 2132.9; Miles Hiked Today: 22
Well, Boomerang did not show. We arrived at the Unicoi gap intersection at 11:00, an hour earlier than expected. We waited until about 1:00. I really thought he would show up, given the detailed commitment he'd made. However, it would have been remarkable if he had, considering the level of effort required for a couple of strangers. Anyway, we used the time to read and relax, eat our usual lunch of tuna salad sandwiches finished with a candy bar. We had another perfect day for hiking. We saw no wildlife. In fact we haven't seen much since just south of Shenandoah. We made Low Gap Shelter around 4:00. Three guys from Florida were already there on a 4 day backpacking trip. Their first. They were were pretty beat. We got to bed early after deciding to start tomorrow at 5:00 (meaning that we get up at 4:00). That will give us a chance of making Hawk Mountain Shelter, just 7.6 miles from Springer. It also means a 33+mile hike. I'd better get some sleep.
Day 127/154, Oct 14, Sunday, Gouch Mountain Shelter
Miles From Springer: 14.9; Miles Hiked To Date: 2159.1; Miles Hiked Today: 26.2
Sunrise from Laurel Wolf Overlook
A beautiful starlit pre-dawn hike with a brilliant sunrise just as we arrived at Wolf Laurel Top (a bare rock face with an eastern exposure). We stopped to watch the sun come up over the mountains. Very nice. We arrived at the Neels Gap and the Walasi-Yi Center around 10:00. The Center hosts a well-stocked outfitter's store and hiker hostel. The AT runs right through an arch connecting the store with the hostel, making it the only building literally on the AT. For those heading north, the Center offers the first place to buy new gear, dump stuff that's too heavy or unnecessary and stock up on provisions. As a “service” to hikers, the store will go through your pack and tell you what you need and don't need. Of course, everything you need is available for purchase at their store. Still, it's a great place and one of the most complete outfitter's we've seen. We didn't need any gear, but we did consume our share of micro-wave cheeseburgers and chips for an early lunch. We tried to pick up something special to celebrate our pending arrival at Springer, but the pickings were pretty slim.
Sunrise from Laurel Wolf Overlook
We left Neels Gap by a little after 11:00, hoping to make it to Hawk Mountain. We hiked well but we would not have made it before dark. We stopped here, our original plan anyway. While at the Center we called Pat. She was just passing Harrisonburg, VA. I gave her our range for our ETA of between 9 and 2 tomorrow, depending on how far we got today. She'll meet us at the parking lot just before the AT terminus on Springer.
Passing through Walasi-Yi Center Portal at Neels Gap
There were a lot of day hikers out. We talked to several. One middle aged gentleman, Stan, was out on a day hike. We talked at length about Thru-Hiking and politics. He thinks Bush should be in prison. He's against the war in Iraq. He believes the government is systematically depriving us of our freedom. He and my brother, Ken, would have gotten along fine! As a retired long haul truck driver, owning his own rig, a Viet Nam veteran and a 59 year old southerner; Stan just doesn't fit the image of an anti-war type. Given his profile, you would guess conservative republican. Actually, we've seen the anti-Bush feeling throughout the South.
First View of Springer Mountain
Although disappointed that we didn't do the 30 miles we'd hoped for, still we have less than 15 miles to go!!! We're really excited and pretty proud of ourselves. I don't think either of us is fed up or exhausted. Nevertheless, we'll be glad to finish. Tomorrow we'll get an early start so we can have lunch with Pat. For now, we'll eat our last Ramen dinner and spend our last night in a shelter.
Day 128/155, Oct 15, Monday, Springer Mountain, GA
Miles From Springer: 0; Miles Hiked To Date: 2174.0; Miles Hiked Today: 14.9
We reached the AT plaque earlier than expected and had the mountain to ourselves. It seemed almost anti-climatic with just the two of us: no admiring crowd, no stunning views, no Pat. Where was Pat? Apparently, finding the parking lot for the trail up to Springer is easier said than done. She ended up driving down dirt roads, passing the ill marked parking area and finally getting directions from a friendly Park Ranger. We joked with her about us walking over 2000 miles and arriving ahead of her! On Springer, Brad and I congratulating each other, took a timed picture and generally couldn't think of anything profound or creative to say or do. Finally, a couple of guys came up and we got the conversation around to us and our accomplishment.
On the way back down to the parking lot, we ran into Lopsided. He had skipped some of the trail, losing so much time to illness.
Chester Creek at Base of Springer Mountain
So, here we are. I think we both feel pretty good about what we've done, but need time to really appreciate all we experienced. With so much to do over the next few weeks, that reflection time must come later. Many Thru Hikers talk about taking decompression time, but that's something we don't have the luxury of doing. I need to get back to the boat to get ready for our cruise south. Brad must pack up his things and head to Ann Arbor to live with his brother and sister-in-law while he looks for work.
One thing is certain, however. We couldn't have done it without each other. I know I couldn't have done it without Brad and I think he feels the same about me. The same can be said about Pat. Without her constant support, both as a booster and, more practically, as our personal Trail Angel, we would never have been successful. Many say thru-hiking the AT isn't what they expected. I agree. It was better.
No comments:
Post a Comment