To access a topological map showing the AT route and shelters click on the Appalachian Trail Map link in "Useful Links".
Day 80/96-100, Aug 18-21, Norton's Marina, East Greenwich, NH
Miles From Springer: 988.6; Miles Hiked To Date: 1185.4; Miles Hiked Today: 0
Day 80/101, Aug 22, Wednesday, Bear's Den Hostel, VA
Miles From Springer: 988.6; Miles Hiked To Date: 1185.4; Miles Hiked Today: 20.5
Day 81/102, Aug 23, Thursday, Dick's Dome Shelter,
Miles From Springer: 970.3; Miles Hiked To Date: 1203.7; Miles Hiked Today: 18.3
I've been remiss in keeping up my journal, so I'll try to catch up with this entry.
In thinking about our hike so far, we really do feel like we've accomplished something. We have hiked 1165 miles! Over ½ of the AT and the most difficult half (we hope). I thought I would feel a little let down, post hike depression or something. I was worried we would be less enthusiastic for the remainder of the task. In fact, we are both pretty excited about heading south.
After we got back to the car, Pat took us into Millinocket for lunch/dinner. We ate at the Appalachian Lodge Restaurant. It's run by a couple from Georgia who have hiked a great deal of the AT and bought the Lodge and Restaurant to be a part of the AT scene. Brad asked the waitress if either of the owners were at the Restaurant. Soon, the wife came over and talked to us for quite a while. She and her husband represent quite a number of people whose lives took a different path as a result of their encounter with the AT.
After lunch/dinner, we decided to continue on the celebration by driving to Bar Harbor. Unfortunately, it poured down rain most of the time. Nevertheless, we had a good meal and got some hiking supplies at the outfitters. The next day we drove down the coast, had a nice seaside lunch and got home in time for a late dinner.
We took Sunday as a zero day and drove to Harper's Ferry on Monday. Tuesday, it rained and I suggested that we fore-go hitting the trail until the next day. I hadn't had a chance to see Harper's Ferry the last time we were here and I think Brad and I both wanted a little more down time. The rain cleared by afternoon and we spent the day going through the exhibits. We ate lunch at the same place we'd eaten when we started the hike 3 months ago.
Brad Back on the Trail in Harper's Ferry
Finally ready and with no reasonable excuse, we hit the trail again on Wednesday around 9:30 am. The Trail proved to be fairly easy compared to what we had been experiencing in the north. We hiked 20.3 miles to the Bear's Den, an ATC run hostel. This beautiful stone, 2 story facility was donated to the ATC by a wealthy doctor who had used it as a private retreat.
We arrived around 5:00 pm looking forward to hot showers and frozen pizza. Unfortunately the hot water tank had burst and they had no hot water. The Caretaker, Nora, in consequence, waived the $25/person fee. She also arranged with one of the volunteers to allow us to use their home to take showers! On top of that, she lent us her car! Brad and I followed the volunteer, Kate, to her parent's home, a fairly new, 2 story colonial. Brad took his shower as I drank the offered beer. We chatted about the trail, weather, etc.
Bear's Den
Back at the hostel, I thanked Nora for the use of her car telling her how much I enjoyed driving again, that I hadn't driven a car since they took my license away years ago! She was amused, I think. We ate pizza, Ben & Jerry's ice cream , drank several sodas bought from the Hostel. Generally had a relaxing evening. We turned in around 9:00.
Today, we hiked 18.3 miles with a lot of up and down but not too difficult. Tomorrow we should reach the Shenandoah National Park! We need to average around 20 mpd to finish by October 15. That gives us only 5 zero days.
The fauna, trail, and terrain differ greatly from the NE. No more roots or rock strewn pathways. We've seen a lot of deer. Maybe 12 the first day out of HF. The uphills seem much more gradual. The only downside to our experience so far has been sweat bees! We've both been stung several times. What a nuisance!
Day 82/103, Aug 24, Friday, Tom Floyd Wayside Hut, VA
Miles From Springer: 952.3; Miles Hiked To Date: 1221.7; Miles Hiked Today: 18
We're just outside Shenandoah National Park in a great shelter. It has a porch with benches! We walked 18 miles today. Gradual but long uphills. In the afternoon the fog finally lifted and it got really hot and humid. Temps were in the 90's. The next shelter is 10 miles up the trail and even though we got here around 4:00, we decided to stay. This morning we hiked into Linden (1.2 miles) to get toothpaste. We had bought 2 tubes in HF but left them in the car. It pained us some to have to walk all that way for toothpaste but it wasn't a complete loss. We got to the grocery around 9:30 and each of us ate 2 hot dogs and a bag of chips, drank a soda, a can of OJ and had them make 2 sandwiches to go! We were back on the trail by 11:00.
We were plagued by bees again. Today one flew right into my face and stung me just below my right eye! Boy that hurt. We have some stuff to put on stings to relieve the pain. It works pretty well. But these things are terrible. They constantly fly around landing wherever skin is exposed. We are constantly batting them away. Oh well. Life on the trail! On a more positive note, we found an apple tree in a field loaded with ripe apples! I climbed the tree and tossed a number down to Brad. They were great.
Tomorrow we pass into the Shenandoah National Park. We keep hearing thunder and hope it rains tonight. The heat is miserable and the lack of rain has dried up many of the streams. Still, the water situation seems to be improving.
While we were at the grocery, we called Pat. She made it to Ohio okay. She's dealing with the water damage to our neighbor's place caused by our refrigerator's leaking ice maker. She's had to deal with one thing after another since we started the hike. I hope our hike lasts long enough for her to get everything done!
Day 83/104, Aug 25, Saturday, Pass Mountain Hut, VA
Miles From Springer: 928.7; Miles Hiked To Date: 1245.3; Miles Hiked Today: 23.6
No rain, and the temperature's in the 100's in the valley (putting our temperature in the 90s). Still, we walked our average speed and made nearly 24 miles. As we were coming up a slight incline, we spotted a bear cub. No mother in sight. However, she had to be close. The cub was very young and ran off as fast as she could. We also had nice surprise as we passed by a parking area on the Skyline Drive. A couple were standing by the trail and as we approached. They shouted out as we came by, “You're just what we've been waiting for!!!” Their faces lit up in welcome. The woman held a box of Dunkin' Donuts and he grasped a small cooler. They told us that they had been waiting by the trail for all morning to greet some long distance hikers so that they could offer their food. Being the polite creatures that we are, we, of course, forced ourselves to accept their offerings. We each ate 3 donuts (Brad saved one for later) and drank a milkshake drink along with a bottle of cold water. They seemed very pleased that we were Thru-Hikers, not really expecting to see any at this time of the season. They explained that they had just dropped off their son at Georgetown to start the school year. On their way back to home to Alabama, they decided to escape the heat of the lowlands and play Trail Angel. Their twin sons had hiked a great deal on the AT and had told them how much they appreciated the kindness of those they met on the way. So, there they were, waiting patiently in the already hot day for us to come along. Lucky us! They also 'forced' us to accept a box of triscuits, a square of cheese, some candied, dried fruit, butterscotch candy, and some ice!!! Then, after we moved on they caught us at the next road crossing and asked if they could take our picture (promising to email us a copy)! What a great couple! I can't imagine their patience in them waiting by the trail for someone to come along. We continue to be amazed and very appreciative of the kindness of the Trail Angels.
Another highlight today occurred at the Elkwallow Wayside. The AT passes several service areas that offer groceries and sometimes a snack bar. We reached Elkwallow around 1:00 pm and had cheeseburgers and french fries. I had a great milkshake and we each drank a can of soda. I also had 2 OJ's. All of this didn't sit too well in my stomach and I was in some intestinal distress for a spell.
We haven't seen very many hikers and fewer backpackers, even though it's the weekend. The heat may have something to do with it. We did talk to a retired Ford Motor Company electrician who is hiking the Shenandoah National Park, hoping to cover 100 miles. He took a 'package' from Ford this year at age 55 and works part time on the family farm in Michigan.
We saw more deer, and as I was catching up on my journal a doe walked right in front of the shelter. Unfortunately, I didn't have my camera. She wasn't a bit afraid and slowly passed through with only a glance in our direction.
We did get a little rain and the temperature has fallen. It didn't seem to rain enough to clear the air (all our views were hazy) but the forecast calls for a 20* drop in temperature tomorrow.
We plan to head toward “Big Meadow” in the morning where they have a lodge and campsite with showers, a restaurant and a bar. We have been on trail for 4 nights, counting tonight, and could use a good clean up. Food isn't a problem and we have eaten very well so far but a well balanced, good meal will be welcome.
Day 84/105, Aug 26, Sunday, Big Meadows Lodge, VAMiles From Springer: 909.9; Miles Hiked To Date: 1264.5; Miles Hiked Today: 19.2
Big rain with impressive thunder and lightening last night. Just after dark it began to rain steady, cooling things down nicely. The electrician from Detroit got in about an hour before the rain. Brad and I had the shelter to ourselves again as the others elected to tent it. We continue to see bear and deer. The deer are almost tame. They don't run away. We saw another bear this morning, larger than the other one, but not yet full grown. It was fairly high in a tree about 30 feet off the trail. It descended the tree head first in a flash and ran off into the woods as soon as it hit the ground.
The weather improved quite a bit due to the rain last night. The air cleared a little in the morning but was hazy again by afternoon. The Shenandoah National Park is turning out to be a dining room to dining room hike. We arrived at Skyland Lodge around 11:30 am and had lunch in the lodge dining room. Then into Big Meadows where we got a room and had a great meal in their beautiful dining room! Hard life on the trail! Prime rib, fresh asparagus, potatoes, wine, coffee, salad, creme brulee, soup and blackberry cobbler. We also had them prepare a box lunch for tomorrow—no more lodges from here on it though.
After dinner we did our laundry. It's truly great to feel clean again. It has been so hot that our clothes drip with sweat. We hang them up at night but find them still wet in the morning. Of course, after we walk an hour or so tomorrow, we will be just as funky as we were before. Still, we'll enjoy this respite while we can.
We intend to mail the tent and other unused stuff home to reduce pack weight as soon as we can. We haven't used the tent or our rain pants at all. They serve as a kind of security backup but I see less and less chance of our needing them. If we go into Waynesboro, we can mail them in a couple of days. We'll make a final decision then.
The trails here are the best maintained we've seen. Clearly, they have been “engineered” to improve the footing and make the grades fairly gradual. There's more soil to work with and I believe the CCC did a lot of work here. It's a pleasure not having to watch every step you take. Quite a change from up north.
Day 85/106, Aug 27, Monday, Hightop Hut, VAMiles From Springer: 889.5; Miles Hiked To Date: 1284.5; Miles Hiked Today: 20
We didn't leave Big Meadows until 9:00am. Breakfast wasn't served until 7:30am and we wanted to take advantage of a good, big meal before we started. We really enjoyed the Lodge. I'd like to take Pat there someday. It was built as a private enterprise in the 19th Century and the main building looks the same as it did in the 1930's. We had an uneventful walk today but did see several deer and another black bear. We stopped at a campsite/cabin area and ate the “box lunch” prepared by the Lodge, supplemented with some things from the camp store. We hiked 20 miles today which is pretty good considering we got such a late start. We had a nice chat with a married couple section hiking. They knew a lot about the AT and recommended several stops south of here. A father/daughter team joined us at the hut. They are from North Carolina & Georgia. They plan to hike sections of the SNP. He flip-flopped the AT last year.
Day 86/107, Aug 28, Tuesday, Blackrock Hut, VA
Miles From Springer: 868.1; Miles Hiked To Date: 1305.9; Miles Hiked Today: 21.4
We did just over 20 miles today with a stop at the Loft Mountain Wayside for cheeseburgers. Counting the walk to the Wayside, we covered over 23 miles but only the 20 counts toward getting to Springer. The trail was pretty much the same as we've seen: gentle ascents and descents over well maintained trails. The forest through much of our hike was not very attractive. The trees are sparsely placed and the undergrowth thick with brambles and vines. We saw no bear today. We did meet a NOBO solo hiker heading to NY with 2 pit bulls (rescue dogs). He said that a bear sow with a cub stood in the middle of the trail earlier in his walk and wouldn't move! He had to get off the trail and walk around, giving her a wide berth. We heard from another hiker that he met a hiker who told him of being in a similar situation and played dead. The bear came up to him and batted him around a bit before ambling off. Playing dead doesn't jive with what we've read about dealing with black bears. While not hurt, the hiker was so shaken up that he left the AT.
Tomorrow we head to Waynesboro to resupply. That will end our SNP experience and probably the relatively easy trails and periodic good eating.
Day 87/108, Aug 29, Wednesday, Alton Inn, Waynesboro, Va,
Miles From Springer:848.1; Miles Hiked To Date: 1325.9; Miles Hiked Today: 20
We completed the Shenandoah National Park by walking just over 20 miles by 1:30 pm! We wanted to get to Waynesboro in time to get into town and mail the tent and other “non-essentials” home. We really didn't push and felt good that we could hike a “normal” pace and make such good progress.
We came across a maintenance crew working at a microwave tower. They were having lunch and offered us cold bottled water! They were very kind but had no idea that they were working aside the AT and knew nothing about it! They were BBQ'ing chicken for lunch and when we arrived, setting the grill on the shovel of the pay loader. They took great care in collectively positioning the grill properly.
Earlier today, we had the pleasure of seeing at close range a mother bear and her 2 cubs! They ran right across the trail in front of us! They were beautiful. We later saw a large buck deer with an impressive rack. I got a couple of pictures but don't think they came out very well.
When we got to Waynesboro, we checked into the Alton Inn and went to the Information Center on the edge of town. The Center along with the usual tourist material, keeps a list of volunteers who provide rides into town (about 4 miles distance). The Center staff member made several calls for us and within 15 or 20 minutes, we were picked up. The volunteer driver, an 84 year old woman, gave us a lecture about the Alton Inn and how it would have better off if we had stayed in town. The owner of the Inn, apparently, has been in a long standing dispute with the town over developing the property around the hotel. The owner owns the “whole mountain” and most of the buildings are falling into disrepair, becoming an “eyesore”.
We got to town and took care of our errands (eating, grocery shopping, post office and laundry) easily enough. Getting back to the hotel proved a little difficult due to the fact that all the volunteers were, ironically, attending a “AT Volunteer Appreciation Day Picnic” and weren't available!!! Near the bottom of the list, I reached Mr. Reid, retired Hershey Plant Manager. When I made some comment about the development problems associated with the Alton Inn, he gave us a different perspective on the politics around the issue. He was more of “it's his property and he should be able to do whatever he wants to with it” person vs the “what's best for the community” view of our earlier driver.
Tomorrow we start down the AT that parallels the Blue Parkway.
Day 88/109, Aug 30, Thursday, Rusty's Hard Time Hollow, VA
Miles From Springer: 827.3; Miles Hiked To Date: 1346.7; Miles Hiked Today: 20.8
What a place! Rusty, absent so far and we've been here for hours, has run a hostel here for about 25 years. Frankly, the place is a dump, even by hostel standards! The bunkhouse is a filthy old barn. As you come down the drive, he has posted about 20 or 30 signs with rules and restrictions, admonitions, and warnings: no drugs, no alcohol, no dogs, no free stays, etc! There is junk everywhere: smashed beer and soda cans pave the open areas near the main buildings. We walked 2.5 miles to get here and there's not a soul around. Rusty advertises free rides to the trail-head, so I hope he shows up. The place is wide open with snack food and cold drinks. A sign invites you to take as much as you want - no charge. The soda cools in a concrete basin fed by a spring. He has a goat and a dog that cowers, tied to a doghouse. Signs cover every available flat surface: “DON'T RIP ME OFF. I KNOW WHO YOU ARE”, “TRAIL MAGIC SUCKS”, and many more, including highway road signs. 
Broken down vehicles, 55 gallon steel drums, etc, clutter the yard. Reading some of the log entries, it seems that Rusty has a real following. People come back to see him bringing supplies or to help with planting or maintenance. He hosts a Christmas party each year for Thru-Hikers who have stayed with him (non-Thru-hiker guests, however, are not invited).
Broken down vehicles, 55 gallon steel drums, etc, clutter the yard. Reading some of the log entries, it seems that Rusty has a real following. People come back to see him bringing supplies or to help with planting or maintenance. He hosts a Christmas party each year for Thru-Hikers who have stayed with him (non-Thru-hiker guests, however, are not invited).We had good weather again today and covered 20.8 miles (not counting the walk to Rusty's). The same plan for tomorrow. I hope we get to meet Rusty.
Day 89/110, Aug 31, Friday, Seeley-Woodworth Shelter, VA
Miles From Springer: 806.8; Miles Hiked To Date: 1367.2; Miles Hiked Today: 20.5
We peaked two 4000' mountains today despite a late start, walking over 20 miles. We felt pretty good about that. Several people mentioned “The Priest” (just over 4000') as a particularly difficult climb, but we found it hard but reasonable. So that we don't get conceited, as we had lunch at the overlook 2 guys came “jogging” up the trail!
We did meet Rusty last night, finally. Just about dusk, he pulled up in his van. He really is an interesting and kind-hearted fellow. He has lived at the Hollow for 27 years and for 25 of those, he has opened up his place to hikers. Until this year, he didn't charge anything, relying on donations. He provided free food (breakfast, meals) sodas and snacks (now it's included in the $20/night charge). He takes Polaroids of all who pass through and posts them in the cabin covering almost every surface (ceiling included). The only place there aren't photos is where he has signs posted warning of this or that. He had no electricity or phone until 3 years ago. He questions, even now, the wisdom of having electricity. His beard falls nearly to his somewhat potbellied waist and shows signs of once having been red. He harbors strong opinions about what's wrong with young hikers today. Still, he was kind to us and we enjoyed talking to him. He encouraged Brad to write a book about hostels on the AT and the people, like him, who support hikers.
We encountered two surprises today: a 3 point buck that stopped about 20 yards from us and stared for the longest time and the “Singing Sisters”!!! Two early middle aged women approached us from the south just as we had peaked the Priest and, when they got within a few paces, without any word or greeting, burst into a wonderfully harmonized version of “Happy Trails to You”! Now I can't get that song out of my head. What a great treat. We talked awhile. They do the AT in sections and were finishing up their outing today.
Tomorrow we'll try for a 25 mile day.
Day 90/111, September 1, Saturday, Punchbowl Shelter, VAMiles From Springer: 806.8; Miles Hiked To Date: 1392.5; Miles Hiked Today: 20.5
Long day. Twenty-five miles with the last 5 miles uphill. We're both pretty tired. Tomorrow, we'll have only a 10 mile walk, then, a hitch into town. Today's hike was uneventful. We did see a bear. We also crossed a road to find 3 three men changing a flat tire on their pickup truck. Seems the truck ran over some glass and punctured 2 of their tires! With only one spare, they had to call a friend. Two hounds caged in the back of the pickup began baying as soon as we appeared. I asked the men if bear hunting season had begun. They told us that “chase” season had opened. I took that to mean that (correctly as it turned out) during this time of year, bears can be chased with hounds forcing them to “tree”. It is outlawed in many states. I think I heard a bear chortling in the trees behind us followed by what I am sure glass bottles clinking against one another.
Tonight we're sharing the shelter with “Godfather” and “Lopsided”, a young man doing the southern half of the AT (having done the northern half last year.
Tomorrow should be an easy day.
Day 91/112, September 2, Sunday, Glasgow, VA
Miles From Springer: 771.0; Miles Hiked To Date: 1403.0; Miles Hiked Today: 10.5
Day 92/113, September 3, Monday, Cornelius Creek Shelter,
Miles From Springer: 751.1; Miles Hiked To Date: 1422.9; Miles Hiked Today: 19.9
Since leaving HF for the southern leg, we've averaged 20.5 miles (that includes a 25, a 24, and a 10 mile day). So, we are pretty much on schedule for our October 15 completion goal. Sunday we hiked an easy 10.5 miles and hitched a ride into Glasgow for resupply and a good meal. We got a ride almost immediately from a couple in a pickup. They were going to the “Tired Feet Motel and Restaurant” in Glasgow-same destination. It's about 5 miles into town from the trail head so we were very appreciative. We were in town and at the restaurant by 10:30am, so we had pretty much the whole day to take care of business and relax. A big lunch, check in, shower, then laundry, shopping and back to the room to chill.
Glasgow, a two street town, includes the restaurant/motel, a canoe livery, a gas station/grocery, a Dollar Store, and laundromat. One outstanding feature, unique to the area, is a “life sized” scantily clad cave woman astride a plastic dinosaur. This is the only dinosaur we've seen on the whole trip. We were very excited.
After taking pictures of the dino and cave girl, we did our chores, then relaxed, ate three meals at the restaurant. The food was actually pretty good. Especially when served by the lovely Shana – nursing school attendee and part-time waitress. I asked Shana about her life in Glasgow. She said that there wasn't much to do. I said what about Lynchburg (the closest town of any size - about 20 miles away)? She said she'd never been there.
Today, we covered nearly 20 miles with the usual long uphills. Being a holiday, quite a few people took to the trail – including 3 joggers (as fit as I feel I am, I don't think I could jog uphill 5 miles)! The trail wound through several beautiful rhododendron forests. However, haze obscured the views. We met up with Lopsided again but he went on to the next shelter.
We used Brad's cell phone to talk to Pat and things seem fine with her. Tomorrow, we may do a 25+ day to set up an early entry into the I-81 exchange where there are restaurants and shops. Brad and I each ate 4 hot dogs tonight, cooked over an open fire. Ugh! We may not be doing the “dog” again soon.
Day 93/114, September 4, Tuesday, Wilson Creek Shelter,
Miles From Springer: 725.6; Miles Hiked To Date: 1448.5; Miles Hiked Today: 25.6
A long hot walk. Water scarce. With about 7 miles to go we came out of the woods onto a parking pullover for the Blue Ridge Parkway. A family, birdwatching with high powered binoculars mounted on tripods, sat in lawn chairs. The man called to us and asked if we needed water! We responded that we certainly did. He opened the trunk of his car and pulled out a gallon jug. “Take as much as you want. I have a whole trunk full.” Brad was completely out and I has only about a quart. What a thoughtful thing to do. The gentleman told us that they began bringing water with them on their trips about 5 years ago. That year there was a severe drought and hikers were getting sick from heat and dehydration. Their thoughtfulness adds them to the growing list of wonderful, caring people we've come across on our journey. “Lopsided” followed us and I knew that he had only about 1 pint left. The last shelter's water source was completely dry. After getting our bottles filled at the pullover, we continued. When we came to a barely trickling spring, we filled our extra bottles just in case the next shelter lacked water.
“Lopsided” joined us sometime after we had eaten. He shared his personal “story” with us about how he came to hike the AT. He finished the northern half last year. While attending Indiana University the semester before, he ran into a series of “mishaps” that caused him to drop out of school. He's from the D.C. Area. His parents both have PhD's (his father, an astronomer, mother, a tester for the FDA). His dropping out of school naturally disappointed them, but he just doesn't believe that he can “cut it” in a regular college. He may try a tech school this fall. Having been solo hiking for a while, he wanted to share a room at the I-81 Exchange. As delicately as I could, I explained that while we enjoyed his company, one of the things we look forward to when we get to town, is privacy. He said he understood. Maybe I was being unkind but I really didn't want to share a room with a stranger. We share shelters with others more times than not. I don't really mind that but every once in a while, both Brad and I need a little space. Tomorrow we'll stay at the Howard Johnson's and take care of provisioning, then relax!
Day 94/115, September 5, Wednesday, Daleville, VA,
Miles From Springer: 714.3; Miles Hiked To Date: 1459.7; Miles Hiked Today: 11.2
Day 95/116, September 6, Thursday, Catawba, VA,
Miles From Springer: 694.5; Miles Hiked To Date: 1479.5; Miles Hiked Today: 19.8
Yesterday, we hiked the 11+ miles into Daleville and got a room at HOJOs. We were there by 10:00am and had time to clean up before lunch. Even though we had most of the day, by the time you walk to the restaurant, then to the outfitters, then shopping for supplies most of the day is gone. It was 4:00 PM by the time we had things finished – not including repackaging the food we bought and fixing my sandals (falling apart). Still, I did go for a really refreshing swim in the pool and did the laundry. Our food choices are changing. I think we both find the trail food harder to eat – me more than Brad. This time we bought smoked turkey, SW chicken strips, etc. We'll need to watch for spoilage but we really need a change.
We had a great Mexican meal at Rancho Viejo, across the street from the hotel, although we both ate too much. I think our stomachs have shrunk!
Long stretches of the trail traced cliffs overlooking the farmland in the valleys. High temps, low humidity and no rain make finding water difficult. We found water only near the end of the day and that spring barely produced only a slow drip. We passed several “reliable” springs and streams that were completely dry. I am really worried about water further south.
We met our goal today of reaching Catawba and the Homeplace Restaurant. It reportedly has the best food on the AT (there must be a hundred "best food" places on the AT). We did make it and the food really is good. The owners of the Homeplace converted a beautiful horse farm into a unique, family style restaurant. Each table picks two or three meat dishes with a variety of side dishes: green beans, mashed potatoes, pinto beans, cole slaw, baked apples, gravy, rolls and it's all on a “all you can eat” basis. We are truly stuffed.
The only other business in this small town is a general store. We stopped there first and asked about camping and they directed us to set up our tent behind the store.
Day 96/117, September 7, Friday, Pickle Branch Shelter, VA
Miles From Springer: 681.9; Miles Hiked To Date: 1492.1; Miles Hiked Today: 12.6
Well, heavy dew saturated our sleeping bags last night. We hadn't seen any dew in weeks and under clear skies, we decided to sleep under the stars. Of course, I could have used one of our ground sheets to cover us and avoid the problem but I'm stupid. Wet bags meant either packing them wet and sleeping tonight soaked or drying them before we head out. Still the night was glorious with stars and meteorites. We decided to hang everything up and let it dry before hitting the trail.
The general store opened at 6:00am and had a full array of homemade breakfast biscuits. We ate well again and drank gallons of orange juice waiting for things to dry. We finally hit the trail just before 11:00. We had to transit the Dragon's Tooth which turned out to be pretty easy. We only walked 12.6 miles. We'll make Pearisburg by Monday, just later in the day than we expected. We are sharing the shelter tonight with a father and son team and a couple of NOBO section hikers. There's a nice stream here flowing well with cold water – wonderful! We made minute rice with mesquite chicken tonight liberally seasoned . I liked it a lot. I think Brad was not so impressed.
Day 97/118, September 8, Saturday, Laurel Creek Shelter, VAMiles From Springer: 659.6; Miles Hiked To Date: 1514.4; Miles Hiked Today: 22.3
The heat made an otherwise easy hike miserable. Fortunately, we found water on the trail. We carry 3 quarts each now and that adds considerable weight to our packs. With uncertain water sources we think it's better to be safe than thirsty. When we come across a good water supply, we drink as much as we can (mixing Propel hydration & flavoring) and fill our containers. Hunters are out in force. We saw 3 even though they were camouflaged. It's a little scary, not being used to seeing people carry weapons.
My left boot is falling apart. The sole has separated. I tried to epoxy it but it came undone by mid afternoon. The two part epoxy bought at a convenience store earlier has hardened and is unusable. I am stuck with a flopping sole until we reach Pearisburg.
Today, we passed the Keffer Oak, 30' in diameter and 300 years old. Very impressive.
This shelter has water but I don't know about water sources further south. The day after tomorrow we'll be in Pearisburg and plan to take a zero day, maybe.
Day 98/119, September 9, Sun, Pine Swamp Branch Shelter,
Miles From Springer: 641.1; Miles Hiked To Date: 1532.9; Miles Hiked Today: 18.5
The water supply has improved. Because we can carry a full day's supply of water, we're not as dependent as most other long distance hikers on finding water between shelters. One of the things we did right was to get the larger capacity Camel-baks (100 cc). I figured we could always only fill them partially if we didn't need it. If you carry a quart, you will have to stop several times a day to replenish or go without.
Today was another warm day. The trail wasn't too tough, but several places were made more difficult by the lack of switchbacks. Rather than slanting the trail up the side of the mountain, they go straight up. Often there isn't enough soil to make switchbacks but here that's not the problem. It may be that the AT doesn't own enough of the land. Sometimes they just have a right of way or a narrow corridor between private lands.
Just before lunch today we came to a place where someone had placed branches across the trail. This is done often when the trail has been changed or there's another trail that could confuse the hiker. Here, however, there was no other way to go. We looked for some reason for the barrier but seeing none we stepped over it. Brad took about three steps and stopped, seeing a huge yellow jacket nest in the path. Before we could react, 100's of yellow jackets swarmed out of the nest. We ran as fast as we could but couldn't out-pace them. We each received ½ dozen stings on our legs! As Brad ran, the pouch on his backpack hip belt opened and coins came flying. You could have tracked him for 30 yards by the quarters, dimes and nickels. I told him the wasps couldn't be bought off so cheaply.
We applied the sting ointment liberally and that helped a little. Then I went back and built another barrier on the south side of the nest. I made a rock cairn and placed a written warning held in place by the top rock. Then, I circled back to the north of the nest and placed a similar note warning of the wasps. We passed several hikers during the day and, of course, warned them. I'm just glad neither or us had an allergic reaction.
The rest of the hike lacked any more excitement. We passed through several long rhododendron tunnels enjoying their shade. Blackened trunks, scorched earth and underbrush marked the path of a recent forest fire in one section, although recovery appeared well underway.
Tonight, we enjoy the comfort of a 1930's vintage stone walled shelter, complete with fireplace. Unfortunately, a large tree fell onto the roof making it a ruin. If it rains tonight, we'll get wet. This whole section of the trail needs serious attention.
Day 99/120, September 10,Monday, Pearisburg, VA,
Miles From Springer: 622.1; Miles Hiked To Date: 1551.9; Miles Hiked Today: 19
Day 99/121, Sept 11, Tues, Holiday Lodge, Pearisburg, VA,Miles From Springer: 622.1; Miles Hiked To Date: 1551.9; Miles Hiked Today: 0
A fairly easy walk yesterday brought us across the bridge over the New River into Pearisburg. We had a great pizza at the Pizza Plus and checked into the Holiday Lodge. Last night, a great dinner at “The Bank”.
We took a zero day today. It finally rained a little and hopefully that will help with the water situation. This morning, I went to the Courthouse Cafe for coffee while Brad slept. Pat, the owner, had just opened for the day. He told me that he had moved here from Chicago after retiring several years ago. He bought the building for the Cafe for $20,000 and opened in June of this year. He said he was losing about $2000 a month and was struggling with finding a successful approach. He complained that people here would rather sit at Hardee's and drink bad coffee all day. His lament carried a jocular tone and he was very amusing. He told of the women he had met since coming here. In his late 60s, he seems fit and reasonably good looking. He shared the fact that he had had relationships with two women here, both of whom “turned out to be married”! Both, he maintains, misrepresented their marital status, revealing their true state only after taking advantage of him. He also went on about the close mindedness of the business community. He's trying to get the town to encourage new business downtown. Pearisburg is the county seat for Giles County and has a beautiful early 19th century courthouse and period buildings around the square. The town leaders insist in taking some of the most attractive locations and making a senior's residential center instead.
He also talked about helping hikers. He publishes a Hiker's Information sheet and town map. I told him that I needed to get to an outfitter's store to buy new boots. He knew of a woman who arranges transport to Blacksburg and gave us her number. We called as soon as we got back to the motel. Then, we waited in the hotel most of the day but no call back. I left several messages to no avail. Around 2:00 pm, I went back to the Cafe to see if Pat knew anyone else who could help us. After thinking for a moment, he remembered that his daughter had to take her HS aged daughter to Blacksburg for a class at the University. He volunteered her services.
Around 3:00 pm, she picked us up at the Cafe and dropped us at the outfitter's just outside of Blacksburg. Her daughter had a three hour class. This worked out great for us. I got a new pair of boots, actually trail runners, and we had time for a terrific dinner at Mexican restaurant nearby. What wonderful people!
We did our laundry, bought supplies and walked across town to the Wal-Mart to see if we could find a good book. Tomorrow we're back on the trail.
Day 100/122, Sept 12, Wednesday, Wapiti Shelter, VAMiles From Springer: 605.5; Miles Hiked To Date: 1568.5; Miles Hiked Today: 16.6
Although the trail seemed pretty easy, we didn't make good time, arriving around 6:00 pm. We took a ½ hour break at a beautiful overlook and weren't in any particular hurry. My new shoes seem to work okay. I went with Vasque Kodas, like trail runners but a little sturdier. I like the light weight compared to my boots but my feet feel the rocks more and there's much less ankle support. Still, no blisters yet!!!
Lopsided joined us again. He had taken some time off to visit with his parents, vacationing in the area. Saw a couple of deer across a small field near the shelter. I saw them before they saw me. When they realized I was there, one of them stomped her front left hoof. I stomped my foot back in response. She did it again and I responded. After the third time, she and her companion fled. I guess I out-stomped her.
The trail today was a lot of ridge walking and rhododendron forest, very pretty. With temperature's in the 70's and sunny, clear weather, it was a great day.
Day 101/123, Sept 13, Thursday, Helvey's Mill Shelter, VAMiles From Springer: 581.5; Miles Hiked To Date: 1592.5; Miles Hiked Today: 24
Another beautiful day. Shortly after we stared, we almost bumped into a full grown black bear! Brad turned a slight bend in the trail and there he was, just a few feet off the trail. Both Brad and the bear saw each other at the same time. I don't know who was more startled. Boy did he run! (the bear, I mean).
We stopped around 9:30 at a small grocery store about .4 mile off the trail. They had a grill and we were able to get cheeseburgers and fries. I'm not sure if this was 2nd breakfast or first lunch but it was good! We had them make us a couple of subs to take with us. I talked to an older gentleman (maybe a farmer) who came up and asked about our hike. Real pleasant fellow. We just passed the time talking about the weather, dry wells and crops.
We continue to be real concerned about water. We saw very little, if any, in normally flowing streams. We detoured down a blue blazed trail to see the much touted Dismal Creek Falls. It was dismal indeed. Only a trickle.
We passed one shelter with no water and the one here has only puddles. Still, it was clear and tastes okay. Going south over the next few days looks chancy. Lopsided continues to keep pace with us and is here tonight.
Day 102/124, Sept 13, Thursday, US-52, VA
Miles From Springer: 579.4; Miles Hiked To Date: 1594.6; Miles Hiked Today: 2.3
Day 102/125, Sept 15, Saturday, Wytheville, VA
Miles From Springer: 579.4 Miles Hiked To Date: 1594.6 Miles Hiked Today: 0
Brad began having some chest pains a few days ago. He thought it may be another spontaneous pneumo-thrombosis -SPT (a leak in the lungs that traps air between the lung and the membrane lining the chest). He first experienced SPT several years ago while playing trumpet in his college jazz band. It's extremely painful and could be dangerous. He'd had one other episode since. We discussed what to do and agreed that it would be best to check it out.
We were only a couple of miles from a major highway (I-77 & US 52) near Bastion and Bland. As we came off the trail we fortunately found a road crew working on the highway overpass. We asked them about nearby medical facilities and they offered to take us to the clinic in Bland. The clinic was just opening when we arrived. The doctor there was unable to make a diagnosis, however, because the X-Ray machine was broken. She arranged to have Brad taken by ambulance to the hospital in Wytheville. The ambulance team were husband and wife (Marty and Connie). They are avid hikers and spelunkers. Their son plans to hike the AT after he graduates from HS. They offered to provide whatever assistance we needed! Brad has his X-Ray at the hospital and the radiologist and doctor determined that it wasn't SPT. He also ruled out any heart condition. He assumed – guessed? - the pain was related to carrying the pack. Neither Brad nor I were completely satisfied with their assessment. Still, there was nothing else to do. The X-Ray showed no sign of any weakness in the lungs. In fact, they thought that the lungs had completely healed from his earlier episodes. We were free to go.
By this time it had started raining and we were 20 miles off the trail. We hadn't had lunch, so we went to Ruby Tuesday's. Since Brad still wasn't feeling that well (although willing to keep going), we decided that it was best to reduce the risk of another SPT and checked into a local hotel. Unless something changes, we will hit the trail again tomorrow.
We spent the rest of the Friday and today relaxing. We did buy supplies and got our laundry done. Brad, feeling better, and I walked to the Wendy's located nearby. We each ate a double cheeseburger with fries and a large coke. After we finished, I looked at Brad and said, "I could do that again." He nodded in agreement and we both returned to the counter to order another double cheeseburger, fries and large drink!
While Brad rested after lunch, I struck up a conversation with the hotel maintenance man after noticing his Ohio State Buckeye ball cap. Although he's never lived in Ohio, he had an uncle who did. He's been a Buckeye fan since he was a child. He told me that today's game against Akron was televised and gave me the cable channel. So, I retired to the room where we ordered pizza and watched the game!
Day 103/126, Sept 16, Sunday, Chestnut Knob Shelter,Miles From Springer: 557.7; Miles Hiked To Date: 1616.3; Miles Hiked Today: 21.7
Picked up promptly at 7:30 am by Capital Taxi, we were back on the trail a little after 8:00. Even though it rained all day Friday, the water situation has not improved. We made pretty good time and arrived here just after 5:00. We saw a few people today – a volunteer doing trail maintenance, a middle aged couple heading SOBO (they were headed for this shelter and seemed to be struggling). It's after 8:00 pm now and they haven't arrived. They may have decided to camp. We also saw a retired banker doing a NOBO section hike.
The shelter tonight is a completely enclosed stone building with a cement floor. Very nice, 1930s era. We saw several deer today. One stood in the trail in front of us and didn't move for quite awhile. Showed no fear. While we had lunch, a doe wandered right up to the shelter where we had stopped around midday.
Lunch Time Visitor
Tomorrow, we head for Rural Retreat. We'll probably stay at the Relax Inn. Hopefully, we'll get there in time to eat dinner. It's only 22.9 miles, but we're not sure if the restaurant serves dinner.
Day 104/127, Sept 17, Monday, Rural Retreat, VA,
Miles From Springer: 534.8; Miles Hiked To Date: 1639.2; Miles Hiked Today: 22.9
The stars last night were stunning. Rarely do you find shelters in the open. Chestnut Knob sits atop the ridge in a meadow so we got a real treat. The cold morning kept us in our long sleeve shirts for quite a while. We found water at a covered spring that dripped very slowly. It took the better part of an hour to get 2 quarts of water. It did give us a chance to read while the water dripped. Water appears to be a little more available but it seems prudent to get water when you can under the circumstances. Getting water delayed our progress considerably. The trail was typical of what we've been seeing: gradual ups and down.
We saw a really sad sight today. A rustling in the bushes beside the trail brought our eyes to an injured doe struggling to get to her feet. Its leg had been hurt somehow. It couldn't stand and clearly was suffering. There was nothing we could do. The Park Service guidelines advise those finding injured animals to let nature take it's course. So, with deep regret and a sense of helplessness, we continued on our way.
Deer with Broken Leg
Later, we saw a bald eagle, our first of the trip.
We arrived at the Relax Inn around 6:00 pm. Rural Retreat lies close to where my grandfather grew up.
Day 105/128, Sept 18, Tuesday, Trimpi Shelter,
Miles From Springer: 512.6; Miles Hiked To Date: 1661.4; Miles Hiked Today: 22.2
We ate a pretty good dinner at the “Barn” restaurant, did our laundry and some grocery shopping at the gas station convenient market. Pickings were slim but we'll do okay. It turns out we were really not in Rural Retreat. We were in Holston. Rural Retreat lies 5 miles to the north on SR 11. Oh well. Talked to Pat last night and we're all set to meet in Damascus on the 21st, Friday. Yeah!!!
Crossed a field covered with these large spiders & their impressive webs
The trail today brought us to the Mt.Rogers National Park Headquarters & Visitor Center around 12:30 pm. With fairly easy going we averaged 2.8 mph. Being reasonably close to Sugar Grove, you can order pizza for delivery there. In fact Rt 16 runs only 100 yards from the Partnership Shelter. We called the Tuscan restaurant (their ad was by the phone). They don't deliver at lunch time. Don't deliver at lunch time??? They said they're too busy! “Try after 4:00,” they said. We called Pizza Hut. “Call back after 4:00.” The Information Desk lady said to try the Sugar Grove Diner. We did and ordered 2 double cheeseburgers, fries. They delivered 15 minutes later! What a treat! The delivery guy wouldn't accept a tip.
Nothing exciting on the trail today. The trail did pass by a field of spider webs that made an interesting sight in the morning sun shining through their dewy threads. Neither Brad nor I got stung which was nice for a change. There is no water at this shelter due to the drought. Fortunately, we got a quart from the river 2½ miles before the shelter, so we're okay. The cooler temperatures lowers consumption considerably.
Day 106/129, Sept 19, Wednesday, Wise Shelter,
Miles From Springer: 492.6; Miles Hiked To Date: 1681.4; Miles Hiked Today: 20
Fairly easy 20+ mile day with long but gradual uphills. Crossed some open meadows with golden rod and burnt orange fern giving a nice fall effect. Blue sky and 70 degree temperatures. Found some high bush blueberries, delicious. Didn't see any ponies. Probably will tomorrow. We did meet a Catholic Priest with the trail name of “Bear”. Real nice guy, section hiking to VA 603. We ate lunch with him at Old Orchard Shelter. He lives at a monastery somewhere and is on vacation. After reaching Wise Shelter, we thought about pushing on to Thomas Knob, another 5 miles. We arrived around 3:45 and could have made it before dark. However, there may not be water there and we met a group of about 8 who planned to stay there tonight. So, we're staying here with the shelter to ourselves. It's a nice spot with open meadow. We may have a nice starry night. We'll do a long 23+ mile day tomorrow, then 9 mile Friday to reach Damascus and our reunion with Pat.
Day 107/130, Sept 20, Thursday, Damascus, VA
Miles From Springer: 459.5; Miles Hiked To Date: 1714.5; Miles Hiked Today: 33.1
Today, we walked as fast and as far as we have ever walked. Even though the trail wasn't the easiest, we still walked 33.2 miles. We had planned to walk to Saunder's Shelter, 9.4 miles short of Damascus, however, we heard that it might rain Friday. We wanted to avoid that and felt pretty good when we reached Saunders. So, we pressed on. The real reason, however, is that we wanted to see Pat as soon as possible.
The Grayson Highlands, Mt. Rogers area is beautiful. After an early start, the trail opened up on a gently sloping, fog-shrouded meadow dotted with wild ponies. Most took little notice of us as we passed. Stopping awhile to watch, two colts walked right up to us, nuzzling the sweat soaked straps on our backpacks. One chomped on Brad's trekking pole. I have no clue why.
The rest of the walk took us up on the ridge with fantastic views. We lunched atop Buzzard Rock. The day was clear and bright. We had no problem finding water. We reached Damascus around 6:00 and headed for Damascus Eats, the closest restaurant to the trail.
Day 107/131, Sept 21, Friday, Damascus, VA,
Miles From Springer: 459.5; Miles Hiked To Date: 1714.5; Miles Hiked Today: 0
Day 107/132, Sept 22, Saturday, Damascus, VA,
Miles From Springer: 459.5; Miles Hiked To Date: 1714.5; Miles Hiked Today: 0
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