Elks and Birds

On Wednesday, July 7, we went back to the Point Reyes park and saw a special presentation by a ranger and the video on the Native Americans who had lived here.  We then drove to the end of the peninsula to the elk reserve.  Saw several herds of elk and one big male with great antlers.  We took a hike to the shore through a pass through the hills.  Saw tons of wildflowers and black sand on part of the beach.  We drove back to camp, stopping in San Rafael for a nice Italian dinner.

On Thursday, we picked up our mail that we had had forwarded to Point Reyes general delivery, did laundry, and continued up the Pacific Coast Highway.  It was amazing the difference between the coast, which was foggy, windy and cold, and 5 miles inland where it was sunny and hot.

We drove up to Bodega Bay and got a campsite.  You may remember Bodega Bay is the place where the movie "The Birds" was filmed.  Just had to go check out the site of the movie and take some pictures.  Afterwords, we drove to Bodega Point, read, ate popcorn and watched pods of gray whales.  We camped at Sonoma Coast State Beach.

Some Fairly Good Days

On Saturday, July 3, we drove over to Muir Woods.  Being the Saturday of July 4 weekend, it was really crowded, so we drove on past and found Muir Beach, which was almost deserted.  We took our chairs, a picnic, our books and sat on the beach and read all day.

On Sunday, July 4, I woke up fine, but after some juice I got really sick.  I'm a bundle of fun.  And, here it is a holiday.  We spent the day in the hotel watching the history channel.  I was able to eat pizza for dinner.

On Monday, July 5, I was better, so we checked out of the hotel in El Cerrito and got a campsite at China Camp, outside San Rafael.  Then, we went to the Marin County Fair, which was absolutely great!  We saw the 4 Tops, the Temptations, a really good art show, all the animals, dressage, ate junk food.  All my favorite stuff.  However, the gods were not content to let me have a perfect day, so on the way out of the fairgrounds, I tripped on a piece of unfinished concrete and fell flat on my face.  Skinned my face up something terrible (I will not share that picture.), hurt my hand and crushed my chest.  I did not break my fall at all.  Couldn't believe I didn't break my nose.  To top it all off, when we got back to the campground, they had locked the gates and John had to hike in and ask the not-too-happy camp manager to let us in.  Oh, well, it was still a great fair.

The next day we spent in camp, just relaxing and allowing me to heal some.  I had a hard time sleeping, because I was so sore.  Had a nice campfire that evening.  While we were sitting around the campfire, here comes a raccoon and climbs right up on our picnic table to see what we had.  We also saw deer, a coyote, 5 pileated woodpeckers  and a family of wild turkeys. 

Starting up the Pacific Coast Highway

Basing ourselves at the hotel in El Cerrito, we journeyed out on Thursday, July 1, to Tiburon and Sausalito and towns surrounding the San Francisco Bay.  What a beautiful area.  I don't think I have ever seen towns that just scream 'pride' in the way the houses and yards are kept.  The yards are full of flowers~~and the towns, too.  Everything is just done to the hilt, and to me spoke volumes of the way the people feel about living there.  It may also say something about the climate and their ability to have flowers all year long, which maybe makes all the effort worth it (or maybe it just screams money), I don't know.  Also, that day, we went to Fort Baker and to a Mammal Recovery place and saw rescued orphaned seals of all kinds.

At this point, we have decided to meander up the coastal highway.  We had, on a previous trip, done the pacific coast highway from San Diego to San Francisco.  We now look forward to seeing the rest of the coast.  We know we will not be disappointed.  The first thing on our list is the Point Reyes National Seashore.  I am fascinated by the San Andreas fault, and it runs right through the park.  We went there Friday and looked at all their exhibits and the film about the area.  We walked 4 trails, including the Earthquake Trail and an Indian village.

The San Andreas fault in this park ruptured during he 1906 San Francisco earthquake, and moved 20 feet in 90 seconds on that day.  Here is a picture of a fence which had been in one piece until the 1906 earthquake.  I am standing by the part that has moved.  Original location of fence is in foreground. The crack in the earth has 'healed'.

On to Oakland

The following morning, Wednesday, June 30, we left the hotel and headed around the bay towards Oakland.  We walked around downtown Oakland, went to a bar where Jack London had hung out (he wasn't there), and saw his rustic log cabin, which had been moved from Alaska to Oakland after the author became famous.

We then took a tour of Franklin Roosevelt's 'Floating White House', the 'Potomac', which had been restored.  It had been originally a Coast Guard boat which was used during prohibition as a way to run down the moonshiners.  Afterwards, it was used by the White House as a Presidential yacht.  For a Presidential yacht, however, it was very plain.  Had been fitted to accommodate FDR's wheelchair.  After FDR, it went through several incarnations, including being once owned by Elvis who gave it to St. Jude's Children's Hospital.  It ended up being confiscated by the Coast Guard several years ago.  It had started out as what we would today call a 'drug runner' boat, and ended up being used to run drugs into the country.  Ironic, huh?

We toured the rest of Oakland by car and drove on up to El Cerrito by back roads and got a motel room, as we could not find a campsite.  Had a great Thai dinner in Auburn. 

The Streets of San Francisco

On Sunday morning, June 27, we broke camp and drove into Sonoma for the last time.  We had breakfast at our favorite outdoor cafe there and headed for San Francisco.  We had not planned to do any cities on this trip~~we are not usually city people~~but decided we like San Francisco enough to go there again.  We found a campsite online and went there.  It was by the water outside the city and looked great.  However, it was $35 for a campsite!  A cheap hotel near the airport was $44, so we opted for the cheap hotel.  At least it had a bathtub.  That, unfortunately, is about the only positive thing that could be said for the hotel.  We settled in, planned our 'attack' of San Francisco, watched a movie and had dinner at a nearby restaurant.

Monday, we took the bus from our hotel downtown and spent the entire day walking the streets of San Francisco.  Went to the Embarkadero, the big market, the marina, the maritime historic park and Chinatown.  Had lunch at the Ferry Building and dinner in Chinatown.  Walked back to the bus and went back to our hotel.  Unfortunately, it was still there.

Tuesday, we again took the bus into the city.  We got off at the area around City Hall and explored that area.  We had lunch from an outdoor vendor in Civic Center Park and joined about 100 other people gathered around a large TV screen and watched part of the World Cup Finals.

We walked from there down to Ghiradelli Square on the water and had hot fudge sundaes for desert.  On the way we walked down Lombard street, the most crooked street in America, passed the opera house, the symphony, the main library, city hall, etc.  (Not in that order.)  We unexpectedly found the place where all the cable cars in the city are run from~~all cables meet at a central station~~and went in to their little museum and actually watched the cables do their thing.  Very simple, but effective.  We walked through Nob Hill and on to Union Square, where we stopped and did a little people watching.  Had dinner at a diner and came back to the hotel about 7 pm.

Putting the Brakes On

On Friday, June 25, we started out to go to the northern part of wine country.  When we got to the town of Santa Rosa, the brakes made such a horrible noise that we decided we'd better get them checked out.  We found a Firestone place that would do it while we waited and went to a nearby mall for lunch.  Due to (I would say) our lack of diligence, we ended up getting whole new brake assemblies in front and 4 new tires.  Well, she's good to go, now.  We had around 250,000 miles on the car and were joking with the guy there that we were going for 300,000.  He said, heck, the way this car is going, you can go for 350,000!  I'll let you know when she bites the dust.  But, on to 350!

We ended up back in Sonoma for dinner at Mary's pizza, walked around this beautiful town once again, and back to camp.

On Saturday, June 26, we tried to find the Sonoma County Fair that we saw advertised, but it must have been pretty small.  We missed it.  Ended up instead going to Healdsburg, the northernmost town of wine country.  Had lunch and walked around town.  Being Saturday, it was quite crowded with some well-heeled looking people.  The town itself was very upscale, and two old campers like us didn't quite seem to fit in, but it was pretty and no one seemed to care that we didn't fit in.

We went to Bella Vineyards where you sit outside the cave in which they house the wines and enjoy the live music in the yard.  On the scenic ride back to our campsite we just missed the last tour of Korbel vineyards~~the champagne people.  Oh, well, it's been a great day anyway.

Still 'Stuck' in Wine Country

The next morning, Wednesday, June 23, we went back into Sonoma and had a light breakfast at a coffee shop where you sit out back in a garden area surrounded by great plants.  We then went back to the early California museum area and finished what we didn't see yesterday.  There was a mission called San Francisco de Solano, which was the last of the Spanish missions built, and the northernmost one.  We then walked to the home of Vallejo, the first general of the Mexican forces here and later an American leader.  Walked back into town for a hamburger and drove to a place called Cornerstone for their art exhibit.  We camped at the same place as last night, Sugar Loaf Ridge.

Thursday morning, we went to the town of Glen Ellen for breakfast, then went to Chateau St. Jean Vineyards.  It was truly beautiful.  We sat in the gardens for awhile.  There was no tour scheduled for that morning, so we went on to Benziger Vineyards in Glen Ellen.  This is a really interesting vineyards that goes beyond organic to bio-dynamic farming methods.  We took a 'tram tour' and learned from a man who used to be a grower about the philosophy of this family vineyard.  After finding the choicest land they could find, they brought in experts who helped them discover what types of grapes would grow best in this soil, and what kinds of plantings to do in between the different vineyards in order to attract just the right insects, etc. to keep their vineyards healthy.  They use no fertilizers or insecticides.  They have goats which clean out the weeds in between the rows, and the goats are where the fertilizer comes from.  Really very interesting.  The tour also included the cave where they store the wines in the barrels, and we learned about the various types of barrels, where they come from, what they are made of and how much they cost. Then, of course, there was the tasting.

We celebrated the end of the tour with a picnic on the grounds, then went and did laundry and ran errands for the rest of the day.  I called my sister that evening for her birthday and we talked for about an hour.

Wine Country - Sonoma Valley

Tuesday, June 22.  We left Napa Valley Campground and drove back into St. Helena for coffee and a trip to the money machine.  We went to a gormet market in Oakville and drove through Yountville.  Went into Napa, where we went to Oxbow Market, drove through downtown and to Hess Winery, where we toured their art collection.  There are so many vineyards you cannot hit even a fraction of them in a week, so they all have some kind of gimmick to get you to come to their vineyards.  Some have incredible haciendas, some brilliant gardens, some art collections in their mansions, and others have live entertainment in the gardens.  You don't even have to buy anything or pay an admission price.  You can just hang out in the gardens.  Bring a picnic, buy a glass of wine, and sit at the picnic table overlooking the vineyards and enjoy the music.  Not a bad way to spend a day (or a life)!

After touring the Napa Valley, we zigzagged over and toured the Sonoma Valley, arriving first in the town of Sonoma.  Okay, just leave me here~~really, this time.  Napa Valley, I guess, is supposed to be the equivalent of old money, the big flashy area.  Sonoma is the new comer, less flashy, more homey, but still, gracious and absolutely stunning.  It's the kind of place where you think:  "If I had all the money in the world, I would live here."  And, I think, that's about what it would take. 

Sonoma is laid out like an old Spanish town, with central town square with trees, a pond, benches, and lots of moms and kids.  There are historical buildings to tour, great food to eat, and ice cream.  We leisurely walked around town, spent a lot of time at the museum of early California life, and had ice cream.  We left town about dinner time and got a campsite at Sugar Loaf Ridge State Park. 

Wine Country - Napa Valley

On Sunday, June 20, we headed south from the Mt. Shasta area toward Lake Shasta.  Had a hard time finding access to the lake, actually, which seems so strange, and ended up at a little marina restaurant with a 90 minute waiting list.  We walked around the marina, looked at the lake, and had lunch.  It was Father's Day and this was the only place around.  The meal was mediocre and the service worse.  I think I owe John a 're-do' on the Father's Day lunch!

Afterwords, we drove south on I-5, west on Rt. 20 and camped at Clearlake State Park.

There was really no other way to see all we wanted to see other than to zigzag back and forth through the state, so that's what we did.  We saw all the mountains, parks, etc. in the eastern part of California, then back down towards the middle of the state to wine country.  I must admit, I hadn't really thought of going to the wine country, as I don't like the stuff, but I surely would have been remiss not to have seen it.  Since John had 'retired' from the trail, and he does like the stuff, we decided wine country was not to be missed.  What an understatement that turned out to be! 

On Monday morning, June 21, we left the campsite at Clearlake and drove leisurely through Napa Valley.  Green!  After weeks in the desert, what a change.  We were on Rt. 29, going south, and went to Calistoga.  Found another used bookstore!  Had lunch in an old converted train station.  Walked around town and got some groceries.  We went on to St. Helena and took a tour of the Beringer Vineyards.  With the tour, you got to taste about 5-6 wines.  So, I got mine, tried a sip of each, didn't like any of it, and gave it to John.  Yes, indeed, if you go to a wine tasting, you want to go with me!  We then went to town and I got what I like, a gelato.  We stayed the night at Napa Valley State Park, and topped off the wine and gelato with grilled chicken, mashed potatoes and baked beans.  We began sorting through our books.  They are taking up too much space in the van. 

Mt. Shasta

Mount Shasta is supposed to be one of those vortex places that has special spiritual energies which attract people from all over the world for holistic healing, etc.  As you can tell, I really don't know much about this type of thing, but all I know is I liked it.   The town at the base of the mountain was a place I wouldn't mind spending more time.  Friendly, interesting.  We found a used bookstore and loaded up on reading material, had a great hamburger, and passed a woman on the sidewalk telling fortunes.  Unique!  We were able to drive up to 7,000 feet before the road was completely blocked by snow.  And, I mean completely.  You couldn't even tell where the road went.  There were tons of people there skiing, hiking, and just enjoying the view.  I had to keep telling myself that it was the middle of June!!

We bundled up and spent some time by the side of the road reading our new books and enjoying the view of Mt. Shasta on the one side and the valley below.  It was 50 degrees.

We found a campsite that night at Castle Crags State Park, with a great view of the crags and Mt. Shasta.

Lassen Volcanic Park

Thursday, June 17.  We left the campsite after John made a nice breakfast of scrambled eggs.  We are heading up Rt. 89 towards Lassen Volcanic Park, through mountains and mountain passes, including Donner Pass.  Had lunch at an ice cream stand.  Ate outside by a creek and watched families with young children romp in the gently flowing water.  We arrived at Lassen Volcanic Park about 3:30 and went to the visitor center.  The road was not open all the way through the park yet, so we had to double back and go around to the campground.  Had our first campfire of the summer!

The next morning, Friday, we took the route up to the northern part of the park (road through the park was closed due to 25 feet of snow).  We stopped at a diner in cowboy country for breakfast, and it was the only place I had really felt uncomfortable.  They had rather explicit political stuff on the wall, which was designed to make those who did not agree feel unwelcome (or feel they were going around with a bulls-eye on their forehead).  I was trying to get away from all that this summer, and did not appreciate being reminded of the enmity which divides our country right now.  Oh, well, life goes on.

On the way to the northern part of the park, we discovered a lava tube park.  This is a place where, as lava from an ancient volcano poured down the valley, the outside hardened faster than the inside of the tube, and the inside continued to flow, leaving an almost perfectly round 'tube' of lava.  Had no idea there was such a thing.  

Arriving at the northern end of the park in the 'devastated area', we spent some time walking around learning from the signs about the different kinds of rock, different types of volcanoes, etc. We were headed for Mt. Shasta, but realized that we would not be able to find a campsite that night (most were not open yet for the summer), so drove into Redding and stayed at a Ramada and had a prime rib dinner (my favorite). 

Lake Tahoe

We kept going east on Rt. 50 to Rt. 89 north to Lake Tahoe.  We arrived in time to get a campsite and have a picnic lunch there before we took off and took the scenic route all around the lake, stopping where we wanted an extra long look at something.  We had dinner in South Lake Tahoe at a Mexican restaurant.  This is the first campground where we have a bear box, a big metal box about 3 feet long, 3 feet high and 2 feet wide in which we must put all our food and anything else that has a smell to it, if we don't want to be sorry in the morning (or sooner).  We did just that and took a walk over to Emerald Bay and watched the sunset. We also watched a tour boat and could look down upon an rather nice estate on the shore.

Following the Gold Rush

After getting the new shock absorbers and an oil change, we headed for California Rt. 49, the Gold Rush route.  We went through the towns of Jamestown, Sonora, Columbia, Angels Camp and on to Murphys, stopping for awhile in each one and savoring the flavor of the old days.  Had a cold drink in a haunted saloon, where the bartender told us of the lights being turned off and on.  Ended up for the evening in Murphys, and had our anniversary dinner at the Murphys Hotel, in the very room where President Grant, among others, had dined.  We decided to splurge and get a room at the Murphys Hotel, only not in the haunted part.

The following morning, after not having been tortured by ghosts, we had breakfast at the hotel and continued north on Rt. 49 through the towns of Mokelumne Hill, Jackson and on to Sutter Creek, where we took a tour of a gold mine, 400 feet below the surface.  We actually saw gold veins still in the rock.  Our guide was a real gold miner who currently led tours of the mine they were attempting to reopen.  You could pan for gold after the tour, but we just watched as one of the panners attempted to teach a young boy how to flip his wrist just right in order to separate the gold from the dirt.  I don't think he was very successful, but he had fun.

We were then on to Placerville, heading east on Route 50 towards Lake Tahoe.  Found a great campsite at Kyburz, along the American River, where they had first discovered gold.  Had leftovers, enjoyed a beautiful evening, read and settled in for the night.